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Prices
for - Argentina Trekking and Adventures
MOUNT
ACONCAGUA CLIMBING EXPEDITION 22,840ft
Polish
Glacier Traverse Route - 6,962 meters
CLIMBING ROUTE
Its aesthetic nature
makes it the preferred route for climbers with intermediate climbing skills and
in excellent physical conditions. This route, also known as the False Polish
Glacier, is another non-technical climb of moderate difficulty and includes a
traverse to the north face of Mount Aconcagua, to join the Normal Route beyond
Camp Berlin. It is a less crowded, more remote, longer and beautiful route than
the Normal Route. Due to the altitude, it can be very tiring and very
challenging. There are some brief treks on the glacier, but neither rock nor ice
climbing is involved. After Camp 2 there is a traverse to the Normal Route from
which we approach the summit of Aconcagua. Some factors (altitude, freezing
temperatures, expedition length, etc) make this climb much more difficult than
Mount Kilimanjaro and others in South America. Expedition members will carry
packs (30lbs avg.) for multiple days. Those climbers interested in this
expedition must be not only physically but also mentally strong.
CLIMB REQUIREMENTS.
For those interested
in this route to reach the summit of the second “7 summits circuit peak”, our
requirements are the same as for the Normal Route: excellent physical
preparation, proper equipment, basic mountaineering skills, knowledge of winter
camping, as well being prepared for a climb that will require perseverance,
physical endurance, and patience. We recommend that those considering this climb
already have experience climbing up to at least 5,500 meters (18,100 ft).
THE EXPEDITION.
The approach to base
camp is by a three-day hike up the Vacas Valley. We will spend two nights at the
intermediate camps of Pampa de Lenas and Casa de Piedra before getting to the
Plaza Argentina base camp. Once in Plaza Argentina, we will spend the next four
days (or 6 who join the Extended Expedition Option) for acclimatization and
rest. During the acclimatization period, we will practice using our equipment
and working in teams. Your body will be given the opportunity to adapt to the
new altitude. As a group, we will also be transferring equipment & supplies up
to the higher camps, so that we will have a well-stocked camp when we arrive. On
the mountain we will set up two altitude camps. By experience we know that a
third camp (after Camp 2) would be too high and extremely windy to rest and
sleep properly. We have also learned that an intermediary camp between Camps 1
and 2 is not necessary. Maintaining a third camp demands too much energy on the
part of our clients, and is a waste of mental and physical energy. After leaving
Camp 2, we will head for the summit, traversing the mountain to reach the Normal
Route, just below Camp Independencia. The guides (1 guide for ever 3 or 4
climbers), will be responsible for leading the climb, paying special attention
to the safety of everyone in the party. Guides will also be in charge of various
chores, such as cooking and providing hot water. The expedition also includes
two extra days to get to the summit, in case our guides judge the weather to be
too rough to continue.
EXPEDITION
ITINERARY.
Day 1:
Mendoza. An Aconcagua
Adventures representative will greet you at the airport and transfer you to the
hotel in Mendoza. At the hotel, we will check your equipment. Arriving in the
morning will give you some time to tour the city. Mendoza is a wonderful and
safe city, with friendly people, sidewalks cafes, shopping malls and thousands
of trees.
Day 2:
Hosteria Puenta del
Inca. 182 km / 113 miles separates Mendoza from Puente del Inca. Early in the
morning our mountain guides will pick you up at the hotel and drive to the Park
Permit Office and then to Puente del Inca (2,275m / 8,890ft). After we cross the
Andes, it is about a two-and-a-half hour drive to Puente del Inca. Mountain
guides will organize mule loads in the evening. Hosteria Puente del Inca offers
private rooms with hot shower and good food. There we will spend our first night
on the mountain.
Day 3:
Pampa de Lenas. The
group will be driven to the trailhead (Punta de Vacas). After this we will hike
up (3-4 hours) to the first intermediate camp, Pampa de Lenas (9,100ft /
2,800m). A day pack is all that you will carry on the approach hike. Mules will
meet us here, as well as at the other base camps to leave the equipment and food
we need.
Day 4:
Casa de Piedra. A 5-6
hours trek will take us to our next camp, Casa de Piedra (10,500ft / 3,200m).
From here, you have a great view of Aconcagua. You will also be able to see
guanacos, a big mammal similar to llamas, and the king of the Andes, the condor.
Days 5-8:
Plaza Argentina Base
Camp. We will begin the hardest day of the approach by crossing River Vacas. We
will arrive at Plaza Argentina (13,700 ft / 4,200 m) after 6-7 hours. After some
rest, mountain guides will organize the campsite and the equipment left by the
mules. The group will spend a total of 4 days at the Base Camp for proper
acclimatization and rest. (6 days for Extended Expedition members). Our
permanent Plaza Argentina Base Camp is led by its own manager and has both a
dining tent and a toilette tent. During your stay, mountain guides will give you
instructions about crampons use. An exploratory trek in the surroundings of P.
Argentina is scheduled for acclimatization, as well as a carry of equipment to
Camp 1 (returning to Base Camp the same day). The last day at Base Camp prior to
the climb, mountain guides will take a look at your personal equipment (about
10-12 KG / 22–26 lbs) and suggest what you can leave behind to lighten your
load. Climbers will carry personal equipment plus the sleepen tent.
Day 9:
Camp 1. Move to Camp 1
(16,240ft / 4,950m). Some 4 hours. Since the group equipment has been taken up
there two days earlier, we’ll move with personal packs. Set up camp and rest.
The altitude, as well as the climate, can cause dehydration. On the mountain,
therefore, it is necessary to drink large quantities of water daily. From this
campsite on, our mountain guides will melt ice to provide the group with a
constant supply of hot water.
Day 10:
Carry to Camp 2. We
will carry loads to Camp 2. After Camp 1, the route becomes steeper. After
dropping off the equipment, we will return to Camp 1 (some 7 hours round trip)
to rest.
Day 11:
Camp 1. Rest and
acclimatization day at Camp 1. From this camp there are splendid views of the
upper mountain, and the popular and nearby Polish Glacier.
Day 12:
Camp 2. Move to Camp 2
(19,000ft / 5,800m), a five-hour climb. From this point on, we will begin to see
a lot more snow. Set up camp and rest.
Days 13-14:
Extra days in case of
bad weather. These days can be taken at any of the altitude camps, or even at
Base Camp.
Day 15:
Summit / Camp 2. This
is our summit day. It will take 12 hours or more to reach the summit and return
to Camp 2. We will begin at 4.00AM. At this altitudes temperatures are below
freezing. Mountain guides will check each climber’s personal equipment before
leaving Camp 2. We will traverse the mountain to the Normal Route to reach it
just below Camp Independencia, and then go over the Travesia, the Canaleta
(moderately steep terrain with loose scree), to finally get to the Summit. From
the roof of the Americas you will be able to take a look down on the expansive
plains to one side, and the Pacific Ocean to the other. Spare time for some
pictures and phone calls to those who supported you! Return to Camp 2 to spend
the last night at these altitudes.
Day 16:
Plaza Argentina Base
Camp. Descend to Plaza Argentina (6 hours). We’ll enjoy a good dinner at our
base camp to celebrate the experience of being at one of the highest peaks of
the world.
Day 17:
Pampa de Lenas.
Mountain guides will pack the loads that will be sent to Puente del Inca by
mules. Hike down to Pampa de Lenas (6 hours). Stay overnight.
Day 18:
Hosteria Puenta del
Inca. We will begin our last hike into Park Aconcagua. After the four-hour hike,
we will reach a trailhead, where we will be driven to Puente del Inca. This is a
good opportunity to enjoy a well-deserved hot shower before enjoying the last
dinner on the mountain.
Day 19:
Mendoza. After
breakfast a mini van will be waiting for the group to take us back to the hotel
in Mendoza City. Farewell dinner at a restaurant in downtown Mendoza to
celebrate the climb.
Day 20:
Departure. Transfer
from the hotel to the airport. End of the adventure of a lifetime.
This itinerary must be
considered as a guideline only. Even though we will do our best to follow it,
several events may cause changes while climbing a mountain of this height.
SERVICES INCLUDED
Transportation to and from the Mendoza airport. One night of
lodging at 4*hotel in Mendoza before and after the climb (two nights). Hotel
includes breakfast. Welcome lunch and farewell dinner at a restaurant in
Mendoza. Assistance in obtaining the Aconcagua Climbing Permit. In & Out ground
transportation between Mendoza and Puente del Inca with mountain guides (by
private vehicles). Two nights of accommodation in Hosteria Puente del Inca (one
before the climb and one after) in a dormitory style rooms with private bathroom
(4 to 6 people per room). Dinner and breakfast are included in Puente del Inca.
Help with gear prep. and packing loads for mule transportation. In & Out
transfers between Puente del Inca and Punta de Vacas trailhead. Mules will carry
climber’s personal equipment (30kg – 66 pounds per person) from Puente del Inca
to Plaza Argentina Base Camp on the way in (with stops at the intermediate camps
of Pampa de Lenas and Casa de Piedra) and from Plaza Argentina Base Camp to
trailhead on the way out (30kg - 66 pounds per person). One night of camping at
Pampa de Lenas and one night at Casa de Piedra both including sleeping tents.
All expeditions meals (Pampa de Lenas, Casa de Piedra, Plaza Argentina Base Camp
and altitude camps and camping facilities. Five days of camping at Plaza
Argentina Base Camp including sleeping tents. Permanent radio link to Mendoza
and base camps. Personal equipment storage in Mendoza, Puente del Inca and Plaza
de Argentina. First quality tents in Pampa de Lenas, Casa de Piedra, Plaza
Argentina and altitude camps. One night of camping at Pampa de Lenas on the way
out with all meals and sleeping tents included. First quality tents for the
approach and altitude camps. Professional Mountain Guides (one for every 3-4
climbers) accompanying the group from Mendoza and throughout the entire
expedition. Two extra days with all meals either in altitude or in base camp for
bad weather or proper acclimatization of the group.
EXPEDITION GUIDES
Ours are National AAGM and Province EPGMT School mountain
guides. All speak English.
GUIDES TO CLIENTS RATIO
Expeditions will be led by one mountain guide (Expedition
Leader) and one assistant mountain guide for each 3 - 4 clients.
CONTINGENCY DAYS
Expeditions include two extra days in case of bad weather or
for proper acclimatization of the group (not for an individual case since this
may delay to the rest of the group members). Reserve days come with all meals
included and take place in either the altitude camps (Camp 1 or Camp 2) or even
at Base Camp (only before starting the climb). These days can be taken only on
Aconcagua. If they are not necessary such days are not exchanged by nights in
any other place (e.g. Mendoza, Puente del Inca).
EXPEDITIONS SUPPLIED EQUIPMENT
First quality mountain tents (The North Face VE25, Mountain
Hardware or similar). Complete cooking supplies for the altitude camps. MSR
quality pans. Camping Gaz stoves. Pots. Radio handy FM 2m band. Ropes. Complete
medical kit with specific medicine for mountain sickness. MSR liquid fueled
stove and a large pan to melt water.
PAMPA DE LENAS AND CASA DE PIEDRA CAMPS
Mules will stop at both sites to bring the gear necessary to
set up the camp (cooking supplies, dishes, food etc). Sleeping tents will be
provided.
PLAZA ARGENTINA BASE CAMP
This camp has a dining tent furnished with electric power,
tables and chairs, a cooking tent, its own bathroom facilities and a safe place
to store your belongings while you are at the altitude camps. Permanent BLU
radio link with Mendoza and Puente del Inca; and VHF radio link with high
altitude camp bases, Park Rangers and Rescue Patrols.
EXTENDED CLIMB
This optional program (an extension of the standard climb) is
highly recommended for people living at or close to sea level. Extended Climb
members have 2 additional days in Plaza Argentina with all meals plus the rest
of the services included in the Standard Expedition. Sleeping tents. Mountain
guide. An acclimatization guided climbing to a higher than 16,500ft hill in the
surrounds of Plaza Argentina. Extended Climb members have a total of seven days
at base camp (6 before and 1 after the climb). (The itinerary is the same but it
starts two days earlier than the Standard climb).
SERVICES NOT INCLUDED
Air tickets to and from Mendoza. Aconcagua Climbing Permit.
Extras. Food and beverages out of regular supply in Mendoza, Puente del Inca,
and Plaza Argentina. Abandon of itinerary expenses. Sleeping bag and personal
gear. Trip cancellation and/or travel insurance. Porters. Additional hotel
nights if for reasons beyond our control (e.g. weather) the group returns early.
ABANDON OF ITINERARY EXPENSES
Extra camping nights in Plaza Argentina BC, intermediate
camps, and hotel nights in Puente del Inca or Mendoza out of the included in the
expedition. Extra mules (expedition includes 30kg per person). Ground
transportation to Mendoza (expedition includes transportation for the group, but
not individual transfers). Expenses incurred in the case of a rescue.
AT ARRIVAL
Day 1 is free of activities in order to allow climbers arrive
in Mendoza at any time according to different options of flights connections.
Mountain guides will check climber’s equipment in the evening. In the morning of
the second day of the expedition we will introduce both expedition members and
mountain guides at the hotel, and provide general instructions of the tour.
NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
Headwear: 1 sun
hat (it must shade the eyes and nose). 1 balaclava (wool, polypropylene). 1 wool
or fleece hat. 1 pair glacier glasses with side protection (and a spare). 1 neck
gaiter.
Upper - Lower body:
1 expedition down parka with hood (-20 F). 1 windproof outer jacket with hood
(Gore-tex) 1 poly/fleece jacket. 1 expedition weight polypropylene shirt. 2
lightweight, long sleeve polypropylene shirts. 2 heavy polypropylene long
underwear (tops and bottoms). 2 t-shirts for lower elevations. 1 pair wind/rain
pants (with side zips). 1 pair fleece pants (side zipper). 1 long cotton pant
for trekking (legs zip off to become shorts). 1 nylon shorts
Handwear: 2
pairs liner gloves (poly thin). 1 pair medium weight fleece gloves. 1 pair
goretex wind shells for mittens. 1 pair wool or fleece mittens. 1 pair overmitts.
Footwear: 1
pair of trekking boots or quality sport shoes. 1 pair of sandals for river
crossing. Double plastic climbing boots. 1 pair of gaiters. 2-3 pair of wool
socks and polypropylene socks. 3-4 pairs polypropylene, wool or similar socks.
Sleeping Gear:
1 down or synthetic sleeping bag (-20C). 1 light sleeping pad, Thermarest type.
Pack: High quality back pack approx. 70-80 liters. Day pack for approach hike
and summit day. 1 Large duffel bag with lock to be carried by mules to Base
Camp. 1 smaller duffel bag with lock to store gear in Mendoza or Puente del
Inca.
Climbing Equipment:
1 ice axe (60-70cm). 1 pair adjustable ski poles. 1 pair of crampons.
Misc: Sun
screen and lip protection (UV rating of 20 SPF or more). Headlamp with 3
alkaline battery sets. Metal thermos bottle, 400-500ml. Toiletry kit. Water
bottle. Camera and film. Pocket knife (mid size). Book and walkman to spend time
in tent. Simple first aid kit. Pee bottle - 1 qt. capacity, wide mouth. Insect
repellent coating for hike in clothes. Passport. Cash. Copies of relevant
documents (maps, directions, itinerary, etc... all in plastic bags). Journal
with pens. Casual clothes for walking around, going to dinner. Small Spanish
dictionary with travel phrases. List of critical information.
The above gear list
must be used as a guide only.
AT ARRIVAL
Day 1 is free of
activities in order to allow climbers arrive in Mendoza at any time accordingly
to different options of connecting flights. An Aconcagua Adventures
representative will greet you at the airport. A mountain guide will check your
equipment at the hotel. In the morning of day 2 customers will be picked up at
the hotel to go to for the climbing permit and after that towards Puente del
Inca.
USEFUL INFORMATION ACONCAGUA
Mount Aconcagua (22,841ft) is located entirely in the province
of Mendoza, in western Argentina. Aconcagua is one of the highest peaks in the
world and the very highest outside Asia.
The first climber to successfully reach the summit was Mathías
Zurbriggen of Switzerland. He reached the highest point on Aconcagua on 14
January 1897, following the northwest trail (Normal Route), which has since
become the most popular path to Aconcagua’s zenith.
Over the years, the number of expeditions arriving at
Aconcagua Provincial Park, eager to face the challenge of height, strong winds
and extreme temperatures, have increased steadily, making it one of the most
popular destinations among mountain climbers the world over. Aconcagua is part
of the "seven summits" circuit.
According to some international expert mountaineers that have
climbed the Himalayas, the almost 23,000 feet of Aconcagua represent an even
greater physiological distance. This phenomenon is due to several factors. The
Himalayas, for instance, have vegetation up to 16,400 feet, while in the Central
Andes Mountain range the vegetation reaches only to 11,500 / 13,000 feet. The
relative ambient humidity is very low and the atmosphere of the Earth is thinner
in this region of the globe. All of this makes Aconcagua a terrain appropriate
to test and prepare for later expeditions to mountains higher than 8,000 meters.
The East Ridge, (the Polish Glacier), the South West Ridge, as
well as the Western Face, all present an opportunity for visitors to demonstrate
their ability. The North West Slope of the mountain, where the normal route lies
permits the rapid ascension of heights without technical difficulties.
Confront Aconcagua only under the direction of guides.
Climbers attempting to climb Aconcagua must properly equipped and in excellent
physical condition.
With regard to the Southern Face, it is a desolate and severe
area, with poor quality rocks, constant dangers of avalanches of seracs and
snow, falling rocks, great unevenness, significant altitude, the threat of
brusque climactic changes, plus true and complete isolation. All these are the
factors that give it its savage condition
From the technical point of view, Aconcagua presents all types
of difficulties on rock, ice and snow. And he who confronts the ascent should
have a good climbing technique, excellent physical fitness, considerable
experience, and most importantly, a lot of enthusiasm and perseverance.
MENDOZA
The City of Mendoza was founded on 2 March 1561 by the Spanish
Don Pedro del Castillo in an area originally inhabited by the Huarpe Indians.
Three centuries later, in 1861, an earthquake completely
destroyed the colonial town. Those who survived the earthquake rebuilt a city
destined to become one of the most important metropolitan areas in the country.
Mendoza is located in western Argentina, some 690 miles (1,100
kilometers) west of Buenos Aires and at 2,500ft (760 meters) above sea level. It
has a population of one million and it is home to numerous industries among them
wineries, food processing companies, oil refineries and manufacturers of
industrial machinery. Tourism is also an important economic activity in Mendoza.
Climate: The province has a semi-arid climate. The mountain range on the west of
Mendoza works as a natural barrier to humid winds blowing in from the Pacific.
Local Time Mendoza (as well as the rest of Argentina): is
located 4 time zones west of the Greenwich meridian.
Getting to Mendoza: Mendoza's airport also offers excellent
connections to international flights from Buenos Aires, Cordoba and Santiago de
Chile.
The city is an important hub for land transportation. The
city's bus station has several daily services to all Argentinean provinces, as
well as to Chile.
Language: Argentina's official language is Spanish. English is
spoken at most travel agencies, hotels and tourist information offices.
Power Supply: 220 volts, 50 hertz.
AIRLINES
The usual way to Mendoza is by flying to either Buenos Aires
(Argentina) or Santiago (Chile) and then a connecting flight or bus to Mendoza.
From Buenos Aires there are 2 hours by plane or 13 hours by bus to Mendoza,
while from Santiago 50min by plane or 6 hours by bus.
WHEN TO CLIMB ACONCAGUA
Officially, the climbing season is between November 15th and
March 15th of every year. Our suggestion is to climb Mount Aconcagua between
late November and late February. This is mainly because of two factors, first
because of weather conditions. It is within this period when weather is warmer
in the Austral Hemisphere and climate more stable on Aconcagua. Secondly,
because it is when there is availability of all necessary logistics to go ahead
with the climbs (mules, base camps supplies, porters, etc). Before and after,
the lack of visitors might make highly probably that you find no logistics.
Regarding weather, large snowfields, strong winds and major snowstorms are a
possibility.
CLIMATE
Aconcagua generates its own weather. Between late Nov and late
Feb there is a wide range of temperatures, from warm days to freezing nights;
snow and winds (some strong) is the usual on Aconcagua. The humidity is
extremely low. Mount Aconcagua is some 160 kilometers from the Pacific Ocean
(which it is possible to be seen from the summit in sunny days). Humid winds
blowing from the sea generate most of the bad weather of Aconcagua. Temperatures
to be expected between early Dec and late Feb are around:
Base Camps of Plaza de Mulas and Plaza Argentina Max. 10ºC /
15ºC (50ºF /69Fº) Min. 0ºC / -5ºC (32ºF /23Fº)
Nido de Condores / Camp 1 (Polish Glacier Traverse) Max. 5ºC /
10ºC (41ºF / 50ºF) Min. -10ºC / -15ºC (14ºF / 5ºF)
Berlin / Camp 2 (Polish Glacier Traverse) Max. 0ºC / 5ºC (32ºF
/ 41ºF) Min. -20ºC / -25ºC (-4ºF / -13ºF)
During the winter in the Austral Hemisphere, most of the area
is snow covered and is extremely windy. Major snow storms are quite frequent
above 4,000m.
PARK PERMITS
Permits are issued only at Direccion de Recursos Naturales
Renovables, located in the Park San Martin (Mendoza City). Office hours are:
8:00 am to 6:00 pm weekdays, and 9:00 am to 1:00 pm Saturdays and Sundays (on
December 25th, and January 1st, this Office will be closed. Acquire your permit
one day ahead). Permits must be shown to Park Rangers based at the stations of
Horcones (Normal Route) and Pampa de Lenas (Polish Glacier Traverse). Please
note that some years ago it was possible to obtain the permit at the trailhead,
or even outfitters could do it in Mendoza in the name of their customers and
send them to the trailhead. Be warmed this is not available any longer. Permits
must be acquired in person as compulsory in Mendoza City only.
To obtain the permit it is necessary to complete an
application with personal information and general details of the trip.
Types of permits are: Climbing: valid for 20 days after
entering the park Long Trekking: valid for 7 days after entering the park Short
Trekking: valid for 3 days after entering the park
There are 3 seasons, high, mid and low.
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