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Nepal Annapurna Trekking Information
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Beside the Everest region, the area around the Annapurna
massif is perhaps the best known trekking destination in Nepal. Based on
sheer numbers of trekking visitors it is certainly the most popular. As the
title suggests, the centre piece of this part of Nepal is the range of
mountains that includes Annapurna I, the first of the 8000 meter peaks to be
climbed. Also included in this general area is another 8000 meter giant,
Dhaulagiri , which is located west of Annapurna I. Between these two
mountains runs the valley of the Kali-Gandaki River, the deepest gorge on
earth. Combine this with lush, fertile farming land, stands of undistributed
natural forest and a mixture of different ethnic inhabitants and you have a
diverse range of experiences that makes this area one of the most satisfying
trekking destinations in Nepal.
The fact that the main Himalayan range runs south of the
border with Tibet means that that the northern parts of the area are in the
rain shadow and are considerably drier than the southern slopes of the
mountains. This leads to unusually diverse landscapes.
Permits and Fees
For most of the Annapurna trekking area, no trekking
permits are required. The exception is upper Mustang where a fee of US$700
per person is levied for a ten-day visit. Additional restrictions relating
to Mustang will be outlined later.
Most of the area discussed in the trek descriptions is
within the area controlled by Annapurna Conservation Area Project. Entry to
this area is controlled and an entry permit has to be purchased. The permit
must be purchased before starting the trek and can be obtained in Kathmandu
or Pokhara . The proceeds of these fees are largely used for the local
community development within the project area.
Getting There
Regardless of the trek chosen it is most likely that
Pokhara will be either starting or ending point of your trek. Pokhara is
located 200 km. west of Kathmandu and can be reached by road in five to six
hour or by air in 30 minutes from the capital. For road travel there are a
number of tourist buses available daily from Kathmandu and from Chitwan.
There is no shortage of tourist facilities to be found in
and around Pokhara. The main center for tourists is at the side of the
largest of the three lakes in the area, Phewa Tal. The suburbs of Lakeside
and Damside both provide a wide range of accommodation and restaurants along
with the usual variety of trekking and traveling agencies and suppliers of
souvenirs and trekking equipment. For those trekking in the eastern side of
the Annapurna massif the most likely starting point will be Besishahar, the
district headquarters of Lamjung district. Buses from Kathmandu, Pokhara and
the Terai arrive and depart here on a regular daily basis. The bus trip from
Kathmandu to Besishahar takes around four to five hours but, at this time,
there are no tourist bus services available.
Most treks starting or ending in Pokhara will require the
use of buses or hired cars to reach the trailheads. Specific details appear
in the trek descriptions.
Flora and Fauna
As can be imagined, the range of geographical and climatic
regions has led to a diverse variety of flora and fauna within the Annapurna
region. Both Pokhara and Besishahar are below 1000 meter elevation and their
climate is quiet tropical. These parts of area are heavily cultivated and
the landscape, therefore, largely consists of terraced paddy fields for most
of the year. The area is also famous for its winter crops of oranges, which
can be purchased fresh from the trees along the trails in the foothills. As
you progress higher up into the hills the natural vegetation changes from
the tropical species to more temperate stands of forest trees including oak,
beech and rhododendron. These finally give way to coniferous forests of pine
and, ultimately, juniper just below the tree line. In the rain shadow, to
the north of the mountains, the landscape is quite barren being an extension
south of the Tibetan plateau. Here there are only stunted bushes and shrubs
except for close to the rivers where irrigated cropping is possible.
Native animals to be seen include many birds the most
obvious being the pika, blue sheep and Himalayan Tahr.
Trekking styles
Most of the trekking routes in the Annapurna region are
well serviced by teahouses for most of their length. This is particularly
true for most popular treks-the Jomsom trek, the Annapurna circuit and
Annapurna base camp treks.
Trekkers should be aware, however that there is always the
risk of being stranded by bad weather or injury/sickness between teahouses,
particularly in the more remote parts of the trek itineraries. a good
example is on the Annapurna circuit where there is one very long day when
the high pass of Thorong La has to be crossed. There is little or no shelter
available for most of this day and some trekkers have been caught unprepared
by bad weather and altitude problems.
The treks in less developed areas, particularly the
Dhaulagiri circuit and the trek east of Lamjung, definitely require trekkers
to be self sufficient in food and shelter.
People and Culture
The most prominent ethnic groups in the Annapurna region
are the Gurung, the Thakali and the Manangba. The Gurungs are the most
widely distributed being found from the hills of Gorkha district to as far
west as Palpa. There heartland, however, is centered on the hills and
valleys between the Marsyandi river and the kali Gandaki. The Thakali come
from the upper kali Gandaki valley around Jomsom where their traditional
farming has being supplemented by trade and, in particular, hotel and
restaurant businesses. The Manangba are found in the upper reaches of the
Marsyandi River and are in many ways similar to the Gurungs to whom they are
possibly related. They are skilled traders and trace their roots back to
Tibet. Religiously, the Manangba and the Gurungs of the upper hills is
Buddhist with traces of their ancient, shamanistic faith still apparent. The
communities live further south are predominantly Hindu.
All of the communities, particularly the Gurungs are famed
for their cultural performances, which are easily seen while trekking in the
region. Many villages along the trails will arrange performances for
trekkers during the main seasons.
When to visit?
As with most of the trekking areas in Nepal, the best time
to visit are during spring and autumn. Spring is the time for rhododendrons
while the clearest skies are found after the monsoon in October and
November. At these times the weather is generally mild and there is little
rainfall. Unlike other parts of Nepal, the monsoon, from June to September,
is the ideal time to visit pats of the region that falls in the rain shadow.
In particular, upper mustang is the perfect destination during the rainy
season. The winter months provide good trekking conditions throughout the
foothills but some of the higher passes will be closed due to snow.
Annapurna Circuit
The classic trek in the Annapurna region is the Annapurna
circuit. The complete circuit has only been possible since mid 1980's when
the Manang area was officially opened up to non-Nepali visitors. For and
all-round experience of the scenery and culture of Nepal this trek has a lot
to offer. Starting in the lush Marsyandi valley, that separates the
Annapurna range from that of Manaslu, the scenery is composed of lush
cultivated fields with dense forests on either side. In the winter season,
orange tree are laden with fruits and fragrant frangipani blossoms cast
their scent along the trails. As you travel higher the valley becomes more
rugged until the villages and forests finally give way to the arid hills of
Manang. The Thorong La pass, at 5416 meters, marks the highpoint of the
treks after which the trail joins the Kali Gandaki river that flows through
the deepest gorge on earth.
This is a challenging trek that is not without some risks.
The crossing of Thorong La can be dangerous at times, especially during
unexpected snowfall so potential trekkers must make sure that they are well
prepared and equipped for all eventualities. The trek can be completed in a
minimum of fifteen days, starting in Kathmandu and finishing in Pokhara. If
a few extra days are allowed for it is then possible to enjoy several of the
possible side trips and add immeasurably to the experience. And entry permit
for the Annapurna conservation area project (ACAP) is needed for this trek.
Most trekkers start the trek by taking the bus from
Kathmandu to Besishahar. These days the journey accomplished in around five
or six hours which allows a few hours trekking on the first day. The trail
from Besishahar follows the partly constructed road as far as the small
market town of Kuldi. This road can be avoided by crossing the river below
Besishahar and trekking along the east bank of the river rejoining the main
trail at Bhul Bhule.
The first few days of the trek follow the Marshyangdi
through scattered farming communities by a mixer predominantly composed of
Gurungs but with a sizeable numbers of Brahmin communities. The crop range
from rice and wheat at the lower elevations to corn, millet and barley as
the altitude increases. Above the valley floor the hills are cloaked in
forest with the occasional clearing indicating human settlements. Higher
still, the snowy peak of the Annapurna and the Manaslu ranges dominate the
skyline. A feature of this section of the trek is the number of high
waterfalls that cascade down into the main river. The valley rises slowly
slow altitude sickness is rarely a problem at this stage.
After a four days on the trail the river, which has been
flowing from the north changes its course and flows from the west. At this
point the landscape changes with steep rocky gorges on its side and large
stands of pine making up the forest cover. By the time the district
headquarters of Chame has been passed the hills are becoming more and more
barren and the people predominantly Manangba. Look for a number of ancient
temples, some of which represent the pre-Buddhist, Bon religion.
The tree line is reached a few hours before arriving at
mustang where a compulsory rest day should be taken for acclimatization to
the increasing altitude. There are a number of possible side trips from
Manang that can be taken on the acclimatization day. Perhaps the most
spectacular is to the west, across the river and up to the Gangapurna
glacier with its deep blue lake formed by the melting glacial ice. The
Himalayan rescue association clinic is located in Manang village and holds
afternoon awareness lectures for trekkers warning of the dangers of AMS.
These lectures are well worth attending.
From Manang, the trial passes through high alpine pastures
until the small cluster of teahouses at Thorong Phedi id reached. An early
morning start from here will allow you to reach Thorong La by mid morning
and then start the long descent across the scree slopes to Muktinath before
the afternoon cloud sweeps in. the whole section have no permanent
settlements and shelter is hard to find. For safety, trekkers should never
travel alone this section.
Muktinath, a famed pilgrimage site for both Buddhists and
Hindus, is the first major settlement reached after the crossing of Thorong
La. Be sure to visit the temples here and especially look for the eternal
flame, fuelled by natural gas, which can be found in the small Buddhist
temple below the main shrine.
From Muktinath the views of the west are now of the
Dhaulagiri range while to the north can be seen the arid hills of upper
mustang. The trial Leeds down through villages inhabited by people of
Tibetan stock until it reaches the banks of the kali Gandaki River, the home
of Thakali people. A further four days trekking down through this, the
deepest valley on earth, brings you to the road head at Beni from where
buses to Pokhara can be found. Settlements of particular interest below
Muktinath are Jomsom with its airport, a possible exit point to Pokhara,
Marpha with its fascinating medieval architecture designed to ward off the
fierce winds that blow daily up the gorge and Tatopani with its hot springs.
There are a number of possible side trip that can be
combined with the Annapurna circuit. Either from the Manang side or from
below Jomsom it is possible to trek up to the high-altitude lake at Tilicho.
You must allow at least four days for this trek and be fully
self-sufficient. Also on the eastern side of the kali Gandaki there is a
trial that leads to the original north Annapurna base camp that was used by
the French expedition that first scaled the peak. On the western side of the
valley treks to Hidden valley via Dhampus pass and to the Dhaulagiri icefall
are also possible option. All of these site trips are suitable only for fit
and experienced parties who are fully self-sufficient.
Annapurna Sanctuary (Annapurna base Camp)
the other classic trek in the Annapurna region is to the
so called Annapurna sanctuary, the site of the base camp used by expeditions
attempting the massive south face of Annapurna I. a short trek, it can be
completed in as little as eight days from Pokhara. The trek to Annapurna
base camp combines some of the most spectacular mountain scenery with a
fascinating insight into the life of middle hill Nepalis. The best time to
visit the sanctuary is during the main trekking season of spring and autumn
but since the route is not a circuit, the trial, and the teahouses, can
become crowded at these times. Winter trek are possible but at any time
trekkers must beware of snowfall and avalanches that can block the narrow
entrance to the sanctuary.
This trek is usually started and ended in Pokhara but it
can also be made a part of the Annapurna circuit or the Jomsom trek by
trekking from Tatopani through Ghorepani and Tadapani and joining the main
sanctuary trial at Chomrong. For maximum enjoyment, allow twelve or fourteen
days for the trek, which allows time for exploration inside the sanctuary
and also the chance to extend the route on to Ghorepani and Poon hill.
Trekkers traveling this route must obtain an ACAP entry permit either from
Kathmandu or Pokhara before commencing the trek.
To start the trek at Pokhara there are a number of choices
of route. Perhaps the best is to take a taxi or bus to Naudanda Phedi where
the trial up to Dhampus will be found. The route passes through a number of
Gurung settlements including Dhampus, Pothana and Landrung. At Landrung the
choice is to cross to Ghandrung, a descent and subsequent climb involving
several hundred meters of elevation change, or to continue on up the Modi
khola through Naya Pul. Both trials join at Chomrong at the foot of the
gorge leading to the sanctuary. An additional attraction on the Naya Pul
trial is a very welcome hot spring half way to Chomrong.
From Chomrong there is only one trial, which follows the
ever-narrowing most khola to finally enter the sanctuary. Due to the
altitude gain, two nights must be spent between Chomrong and the sanctuary
in order to avoid the risk of AMS. There are a number of settlements in the
valley, providing ample accommodation. However, during winter it is wide to
check at Chomrong in case the teahouse up the valley has closed for the off
season.
The trial up the Modi khola passes through dense stands of
rhododendron and bamboo for the first day. By the time the large rock
overhang, known as Hinku cave, is reached the vegetation has thinned and the
gorge narrowed to be only a few hundred meters wide. Steep, snow-clad ridges
falling from Himchuli on the left and Machhapuchhre on the right from the
entrance to the sanctuary. as you pass through the "gate” and enter the
sanctuary you will find yourself in a huge amphitheater enclosed by a solid
wall of snow capped peaks which include Annapurna I, II, III and IV plus the
fish tailed spire of the Machhapuchhre. Teahouses are available at
Machhapuchhre base camp, just inside the sanctuary, or at Annapurna base
camp, a further two hours beyond.
Spend at least one full day inside the sanctuary. Side
trips across the south Annapurna glacier, north from Annapurna base camp
allow for an even better appreciation of this unique place.
Return by the same route to Chomrong where you can choose
to retrace your outward steps or deviate through either Ghandrung or
Ghorepani.
Annapurna Foothills
There are a number of options for short treks in the
foothills to the north of Pokhara. Most of these variations will visit
Ghandrung and Ghorepani. The former is a large, traditional Gurung village
while Ghorepani is the settlement below the famed vantage point of Poon
hill, one of the best spots from which to view the central Nepal Himalaya
range.
The various itineraries are all relatively easy and none
reach high enough elevations for AMS to be an issue. Generally between five
and six trekking days are sufficient for any of the itinerary option. All
enter the ACAP area so an entry permit is required. The permit should be
obtained either in Kathmandu or Pokhara prior to starting the trek.
Teahouses are plentiful through the foothills but there are a couple of
alternative routes that will require the trekker to be self-sufficient if
these trails are chosen.
The most commonly trekked of the foothill itineraries
starts and ends at Naya Pul on the Baglung highway(not to be confused with
the Naya Pul on the Modi Khola beyond Landrung).traveling by bus or taxi,
the journey to Naya Pul takes around one to two hours. Cross the Modi khola
at Naya Pul and trek through Birethanti to Syauli Bazaar following the river
through cultivated fields and small villages. At Syauli Bazaar the trial
climbs steeply to the large Gurung village of Ghandrung (pronounced Ghandruk
by the locals). Here there is wide selection of teahouses and community
operates craft and cultural displays. An extra day spent at Ghandrung
experiencing the traditional Gurung way of life is well worthwhile.
From Ghandrung the main trial passes through Tadapani to
the pass at Ghorepani. Above the hill is Phoon hill, a climb of around three
hundred meters. The reward for making the climb at dawn or dusk is one of
the best mountain panoramas in Nepal. The view takes in Dhaulagiri, the
Annapurnas and, in the distance, the Manaslu range.
From Ghorepani there are three choices. The most commonly
taken route drops down the villages of Ulleri and Turkedhunga to Birethanti,
the original starting point of the trek. There is a steep trial and can be
quite crowded during the peak seasons. It passes through sense stands of oak
and rhododendron until Ulleri is reached after which the landscape is mostly
cultivated fields.
Another option is to continue on from Ghorepani and
descend to the kali Gandaki at Tatopani (see Annapurna circuit trek
description). After a night at Tatopani the river can be followed down to
Beni from where buses to Pokhara are available.
The third possibility is to trek along the ridge that
starts at Phoon hill. There is little in the way of permanent settlement
until the high point of the ridge at Bhuka is reached. Just below the hill
is Gurung village of Langdi while a couple of hours further down the ridge
are Tangle, another Gurung settlement. From here it is only a short distance
back to the main trial at Birethanti and Naya Pul. This ridge walk is quite
isolated and no teahouse accommodation is available making self-sufficiency
essential. It has the advantage of being well off the normal tourist route
and allows for an insight into local culture that is harder to find on the
main trial.
Jomsom and Muktinath
The Jomsom trek is probably the single most popular trek
in Nepal. The diverse landscapes and cultures to be found along the trek
route give a marvelous insight into the way of life of rural Nepalese
people. The main feature of trek is the walk through the George craved by
the kali Gandaki River, which carries water from the Tibetan plateau to
eventually join the Ganges in India.
Normally trekkers continue on above Jomsom to Muktinath,
the famous pilgrimage site for both Buddhists and Hindus. To Hindus,
Muktinath is sacred as the place of salvation. They believe that to wash in
the waters here guarantees salvation after death. The Hindu god, Brahma, is
thought to have lit the eternal flames that still burn at Muktinath. To the
Buddhists it is a place that the great sage guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava)
meditated at, and to all, it is the source of fossilized ammonites, known
locally as shaligrams, which are found all along the upper reaches of kali
Gandaki. The people of this part of Nepal are a mixture of Gurung and Magar
in the lower stretches of the kali Gandaki, Thakali people around Jomsom and
people with obvious Tibetan roots, the Lopa, around Muktinath and up into
mustang. Their customs and dress are all quite distinct and this trek gives
a chance to see those differences. The religions seen range from Hinduism in
the lower parts to the Tibetan style Buddhism as you travel further north.
Should you be in Muktinath In early September you will be able to see one of
Nepal’s unique festivals, the annual horse races known as Yartung. This is
a week of some serious horse racing, Tibetan style, and some equally serious
merrymaking.
Most of the route for the Jomsom trek has been described
as part of the Annapurna circuit and Annapurna foothills treks. The normal
standing point is Naya Pul on the Pokhara to Baglung road and fro there, via
Ghorepani and Tatopani, into the gorge of kali Gandaki.
Between Tatopani and Lete khola the scenery changes
dramatically. Pine forests crowd in on the trial and the villages take on a
quite different appearance. The layout of the villages and the design of the
houses are both quite unique to this area. They are designed to protect
their inhabitants from the strong winds that blow up the valley everyday
from late morning onwards. These winds are caused by differences in
atmospheric pressure between the Tibetan plateau and the lower reaches of
the valley. The best example of this unique architecture is to be found at
the village of Marpha which is a two hour walk below Jomsom. The stone
flagged streets with an efficient underground drainage system and the flat
roofed houses all with a central courtyard make an attractive spot to spend
an extra rest day. Sample the apple products from the prolific orchards that
have been set up in the valley.
Jomsom is best known for its airport that offers a quick
entry or exit to the valley with regular daily flights from Pokhara.
Remember that the winds that blow up the valley normally mean that no
flights can arrive or depart from Jomsom after 11 am. Jomsom can also be
considered as a place to use as a base for exploring the upper part of the
kali Gandaki. There are numerous accommodation options including a new
high-class resort complex.
An alternative to Jomsom as a final base for the trek is
the village of Kagbeni; a further two hours up the valley. Kagbeni is much
less commercialized than Jomsom and certainly much quieter. This is as far
as trekkers are allowed to go towards upper Mustang without having a special
trek permit and an accompanying environmental officer. For details see the
upper mustang treks description. From Kagbeni to Muktinath takes three to
four and trekkers can choose to do this as a day trip or to stay at one of
the many teahouses available at Muktinath.
Sikles
The Gurung village of Sikles has been established by the
ACA project as a model trekking village and is an internal part of their
eco-route. It is located to the north east of Pokhara, at about 2000 meters
elevation, in the shadow of Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal. It is a large
village, possibly the second largest Gurung village in Nepal, and is a
well-preserved example of traditional Gurung culture. While here, the
trekker can easily spend several days experiencing local life-style,
handicraft production and sight-seeing. Of particular interest are the local
cloth weaving and the ancient water driven flourmills.
Above the village is Rishing Danda, from where a marvelous
panoramic view of the peaks of Annapurna II and Lamjung can be seen. This
place is also famous as a point from which to see avalanches thundering down
off the mountain sides.
Folk songs and dances are an important part of Gurung life
and cultural performances are common occurrences in Sikles. Of particular
interest here is the Ghantu dance, traditionally performed by three young
girls.
Accommodation in Sikles can be either in teahouses or, by
prior arrangement with ACAP Pokhara office, in village homes.
To get to Sikles it is best to do the round trip, starting
in Pokhara and taking a taxi to Kabhre Danda. From here it takes two days t
trek to Sikles via Chansu. To return, follow the eco-route through the
Ghalekhaeka and Diprang and back into Pokhara in a further three days easy
trekking.
Lamjung Trek
The area to the east of the Marshyandi River, between
Lamjung and Gorkha districts, has a great deal of potential for remote area
treks. This part of the country has not developed any of the conventional
tourist infrastructures so groups will need to be fully self-sufficient and
have competent guides familiar with the local trials. No special permits are
required.
The best destinations are the lakes of Mimi Pokhari and
Dudh Pokhari, which are located on the southwestern slopes of Baudha Himal
and Himal Chuli, both a part of the Manaslu massif. These two lakes are
pilgrimage sites for local Gurung people during the summer months. The best
starting point for treks to both of these lakes is either Phalensangu or
Besishahar.
Beyond Dudh Pokhari is a high pass, Rupina Bhanjyang,
which takes the trekker in to the valley of the Budhi Gandaki.
Alternatively, from Dudh Pokhari a trail can be followed into the Deurandi
khola valley and on to Gorkha.
To the west of the Marshyandi River there are other
possibilities for self-sufficient trekkers. There is much more habitation on
the side of the river but little or no tourist facilities. Treks from
Besishahar through the villages of Ghalegaon, Bhujung, and on towards Sikles
are possible but, again, guides with local knowledge are essential. An ACAP
entry permit is required to trek past Ghalegaon. A number of village home
stay programmes are being developed in the area, which will afford visitors
a unique insight into rural life.
Above Ghalegaon a remote trial leads through uninhabited
country to the high pass of Namun La. This pass leads down to the Marshyandi
khola near Bagarchap on the Annapurna circuit route. Trekkers attempting
this route must ensure that they and their staff are well prepared for this
crossing which is often snow bound.
Dhaulagiri Circuit
A circuit of Dhaulagiri massif is possible for
well-equipped and fully self-sufficient parties. The minimum time that
should be allowed for this itinerary is eighteen days Pokhara to Pokhara but
a few extra days to allow for side trips or bad weather are advisable. The
route crosses two high which are in remote country far from any assistance.
Particular care must be taken with regards to proper acclimatization and
staff equipment. Since much of the first half of the trek travels on rarely
trekked trails, the services of an experienced local guide are highly
recommended. No special permits are required for the Dhaulagiri circuit but
for the last part, down the kali Gandaki, an ACAP entry permit is needed.
The trek is best started at Beni, the district
headquarters of Myagdi district. Myagdi is one of the most easterly of the
districts where the Magar people can be found. This group of hill dwellers
are similar in many ways to their Gurung neighbors but are thought to have
settled in Nepal some time earlier. Like their Gurung cousins, the Magar
have a tradition of service in the Gurkha regiments. Regular bus services
operate from Pokhara as far as Baglung and from there, are less frequent
services to Beni.
The Dhaulagiri trail follows the Myagdi khola, the river
that drains the southern side of the Dhaulagiri massif. Passing through the
settlements of Darbang and Muri, the country is still quite heavily
populated with scattered villages and farming land. Beyond Muri, the Myagdi
khola swings north and the landscape becomes much more rugged and sparsely
populated. The tree line is reached just below the sit of the, so called,
Italian base camp, located at the snout of the Chhonbaraan Glacier, is an
ideal place to spend an acclimatization day exploring the hills around
about.
The next two days are spent on the glacier, the second
night being at Dhaulagiri base camp, a rugged spot with some spectacular
views of the western face of Dhaulagiri.
From here the trial crosses French pass which at 5360
meters is the highest point of the trek. Descending French pass you enter
the lonely but fascinating area known as Hidden valley. This place is one of
the few true wilderness areas accessible to trekkers in Nepal. The valley
stretches away to the north eventually narrowing to a rugged gorge that
connects to Upper Dolpa. There are reports of many endangered species
residing in this area including the elusive snow leopard. If all the members
and the staff of the group are fit then a rest and exploration day spent in
hidden valley is well worth while.
From Hidden valley the trial now crosses Dhampus pass
(sometimes known as Thapa pass). While not as high as French pass, it is
roughly 100 meters lower, Dhampus pass has a reputation for bad weather
which can make the crossing and subsequent descent something of a problem.
Trekkers must be aware of the health of their group members and staff,
especially on the section between French pass and Dhampus pass. Any person
suffering from the symptoms of AMS must never be taken on over French pass
but rather, taken back down the Myagdi khola to a lower altitude. Having a
group member suffer from AMS between the passes poses a serious problem as
the only way to get the patient assistance is to ascend which would make the
problem worse.
Having crossed Dhampus pass the trial descends into the
valley of the kali Gandaki meeting the main trial at either Marpha or
Tukuche. On the way down to the valley there are some spectacular views
across to the Annapurnas and up into the arid steppes of Mustang.
The rest of the trek is described in the Annapurna circuit
description.
Upper Mustang
To trek into upper mustang is a rare privilege. Here you
will experience the way of life of the true mountain people, for years, cut
off from the rest of Nepal. In many ways, a trek into upper mustang is
similar to trekking into Tibet, which geographically it is a part of. The
district of Mustang was, until 1950, a separate kingdom within the
boundaries of Nepal. The last king, the raja of mustang, still has his home
at the ancient capital, Lo Manthang.
Access to upper Mustang has only been possible for
non-Nepalese trekkers for around ten years and, even today, access is still
heavily regulated and restricted. To enter upper Mustang, that is to travel
further north than Kagbeni, trekkers need a special trekking permit and mist
be accompanied by a government appointed environmental officer. The expenses
of the environmental officer have to borne by the group. Trekker must have
arranged their trek through a government recognized trekking agency in order
to be issued permits. The cost of the trekking permit is US$700 per person
for ten-day trek in the restricted area.
Upper Mustang, being in the Himalayan rain shadow, is one
of the few parts of the country that are suitable for trekking during the
summer monsoon period. Even at this time, the upper kali Gandaki valley is
still quiet dry with only occasional rainfall. The Mustang trek is not
particularly difficult, the highest point reached is only 3800 meters, but
the conditions at times can be arduous. Cold in winter and windy and dusty
all year. Winter treks are best avoided due to southern parts of the country
and even India.
There are few accommodation facilities available above
Kagbeni so groups must be fully self-sufficient, especially in fuel. While
porters are available in Jomsom it is preferable, in Mustang, to use mules
to carry the loads. These pack animals are available locally and are more
economical, and certainly more environmentally friendly, than human porters.
The Mustang trek requires a minimum of nine days starting
and ending in Kagbeni. This allows the trek to be completed within the
ten-day permit period. The route basically follows the kali Gandaki valley
but, on occasions, climbs high above the valley walls. The settlements are
scattered with little sign of cultivation between villages. In Mustang,
little will grow without irrigation, which makes the settlements reminiscent
of oases.
Lo Manthang, the old capital, is reached in four days and
at least one extra day should be spent here for local sight-seeing. Ponies
are available for hire for this purpose.
The return trip can either follow the upward route or, for
an alternative, the eastern bank of the kali Gandaki may be followed.
Short Treks out of Pokhara
There are a number of relatively easy short treks that can
be undertaken around Pokhara. The area south of Phewa Tal is particularly
suitable, with treks of two to five days being possible. This area, however,
has fewer accommodation facilities so self-sufficiency is generally
required. These trekking routes pass through some very attractive rural
communities and with the low altitude reached, make suitable winter treks.
It can get uncomfortably hot during the summer months, however.
Possibly the most attractive destination is Panchase, a
250 meter high hill to the west of Pokhara. This hill gives a Himalayan
Panorama that rivals that found that at Poon hill. The easiest access to
Panchase is from the village of Badauri, which can be reached on foot or
vehicle from Naudanda on the Baglung highway. From Badauri it is a pleasant
three to four hour walk through the forest to Panchase Deurali where some
basic lodging is available. The hilltops are a further hour or so from here.
The Panchase trek can be extended in several ways. From
Panchase hill it is possible to trek through the large Gurung village of
Arthor and continues on to Karkinetta. Here some very basic accommodation
may be found. The choice then is to trek to Kusma, on the Baglung highway in
one day from where a bus can be taken back to Pokhara. Alternatively, there
are buses and jeeps available at Karkinetta that connect directly with
Pokhara.
Another possibility is to trek from Panchase back to
Pokhara via the ridge that runs through the villages of Bhumdi and Pumdi. By
taking this route you are able to complete the trek at the peace Stupa above
Phewa Tal and then descend to the lake and reach lake side by boat. This
route gives excellent views of the Himalaya with Phewa Tal in the
foreground. No tea houses are available until the peace Stupa is reached.
To the north of Pokhara there is the, so called, trek.
This for-day trek follows the ridges above Pokhara's second largest lake,
Begnas Tal. No teahouses are available so groups need to be self-sufficient.
Views of the Annapurnas and back to Pokhara are worthwhile
from the ridge top as a number of interesting Gurung villages is visited on
the way. This is a particularly good route during the colder winter months.
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