Aconcagua Normal Route

Prices for - Argentina Trekking and Adventures

MOUNT ACONCAGUA CLIMBING EXPEDITION 22,840ft - NORMAL ROUTE with porters- 6,962 meters

Aconcagua offers one of the best opportunities in the world to climb a peak at high altitude where no technical climbing is required. Our route allows a lot of time for acclimatization, to ensure all participants the best chance of reaching the summit. Highly experienced local guides are dedicated to the success on one of the highest trekking peaks in the world. It involves challenging walking and at times the going can be hard, but there is a great sense of achievement on reaching America’s highest peak.

THE NORMAL ROUTE.
The Normal Route of Mount Aconcagua, also known as the North-West Ridge, is a non-technical climb that should not be underestimated; extreme altitude (6,960m / 22,840ft) and weather (-20C / -30C) make this a challenging climb. Proper acclimatization, personal equipment and physical fitness are a must.

CLIMB REQUIREMENTS.
Required for this climb are: excellent physical preparation, proper equipment, basic mountaineering skills, knowledge of winter camping, and the mental preparation for a climb that will require perseverance, physical endurance, and patience. We recommend that those considering this climb already have experience climbing up to at least 5,500 meters (~18,000 ft).

THE EXPEDITION.
Our expeditions are the result of many years of working on Aconcagua. Our detailed itinerary has proven successful time after time. The painstaking work of our mountain guides plus a well supported climb, give you an excellent opportunity to reach the summit of America’s highest peak.

The approach to base camp is by a three-day hike up the Horcones Valley. We will spend two nights at the intermediate camp of Confluencia for acclimatization. Then we will continue to Plaza de Mulas. Once at Base Camp, we will spend the next four days (or 6 who join the Extended Expedition Option) for acclimatization and rest. During the acclimatization period, we will practice using our equipment and working in teams. Your body will be given the opportunity to adapt to the new altitude. Our porters will be transferring equipment & supplies up to the higher camps, so that you can save your energy for reaching the summit. On the mountain, we have three camps at high altitude. The guides (1 guide for every 3 or 4 climbers) will be responsible for leading the climb. Our guides pay special attention to the safety of everyone in the party. Guides will also be in charge of various chores, such as cooking and providing hot water. The expedition also includes two extra days to get to the summit, in case our guides judge the weather to be too rough to continue.

EXPEDITION ITINERARY.

Day 1: Mendoza. An Aconcagua Adventures representative will greet you at the airport and transfer you to the hotel in Mendoza. At the hotel, we will check your equipment. Arriving in the morning will give you some time to tour the city. Mendoza is a wonderful and safe city, with friendly people, sidewalks cafes, shopping malls and thousands of trees.

Day 2: Hosteria Puenta del Inca. 182 km / 113 miles separates Mendoza from Puente del Inca. Early in the morning our mountain guides will pick you up at the hotel and drive to the Park Permit Office and then to Puente del Inca (2,275m / 8,890ft). After we cross the Andes, it is about a two-and-a-half hour drive to Puente del Inca. Mountain guides will organize mule loads in the evening. Hosteria Puente del Inca offers private rooms with hot shower and good food. There we will spend our first night on the mountain.

Days 3 - 4: Confluencia Base Camp. We will drive to the Normal Route’s trailhead (Horcones). Here you will register your entry into Park Aconcagua with the climbing permit purchased on Day 2. Mules will carry the expedition equipment to Camp Confluencia, so you will only carry a day pack. It takes 4 to 5 hours to trek to Confluencia (11,450ft / 3,500m. We will spend two nights at this campsite to let you acclimatize properly before getting to Plaza de Mulas. A day hike to the impressive South Face Base Camp (Plaza Francia) is one of the activities scheduled.
To make your stay more comfortable, our Confluencia base camp includes a dining tent, as well as a toilet tent.

Days 5 - 8: Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. The group will leave Confluencia for Plaza de Mulas after breakfast. An easy but long hike, the trek will take 7 to 9 hours before arriving at Plaza De Mulas Base Camp (14,000ft / 4,370m). The group will spend a total of 4 days at the Base Camp for proper acclimatization and rest (6 days for Extended Expedition members). Our permanent Plaza de Mulas Base Camp is led by its own manager and also has a dining tent and a toilet tent. Mountain guides will give our customers instructions about crampons use. An exploratory trek in the surroundings of P. de Mulas is scheduled for acclimatization, as well as a carry of equipment to Camp 1 (returning to Base Camp the same day). A digital oximeter will be used to check your acclimatization. The last day at Base Camp prior to the climb, mountain guides will take a look at your personal equipment and suggest what you can leave behind to lighten your load. You will only carry your personal equipment, about 10-12 KG (22 – 26 lbs).

Day 9: Canada Camp. 3-4 hours to Canada Camp (16,100ft / 4,910m). Set up camp. The terrain here will not present any trouble. Typically, there is no snow here, but the ice we find allows us to stock up on water. The altitude, as well as the climate, can cause dehydration. On the mountain, therefore, it is necessary to drink large quantities of water daily. From this campsite on, our mountain guides will melt ice to provide the group with a constant supply of hot water.

Day 10: Nido. We typically depart for Nido in the mid-morning. After a 5-6 hour hike, we reach Nido (17,600ft / 5,380m), a large flat area. Some rocks will be a wind break for our tents. The porters have left all the equipment for the expedition at this camp.

Day 11: Nido. Rest / acclimatization day at Nido. From here, you have a magnificent view of the last stretch of trail to the summit.

Day 12: Camp Berlin. It is a steep but short climb (4 hours) up to Camp Berlin (18,900ft / 5,780m). We will get to our last altitude camp at approximately 2:00 pm. Again the porters will carry the equipment. Set up camp and rest.

Days 13-14: Extra days in case of bad weather. These days can be taken at any of the altitude camps, or even at Base Camp.

Day 15: Summit / Camp Berlin. This is our summit day. It will take 12 hours or more to reach the summit and return to Camp Berlin. We will begin at 4.30 AM. Mountain guides will check each climber’s personal equipment before leaving Camp Berlin. At this altitude temperatures are well below freezing. We will go over the Travesia, then the Canaleta (moderately steep terrain with loose scree), and before finally reaching the Summit. From the roof of the Americas you will be able to look down on the expansive plains to one side, and the Pacific Ocean on the other. Spare some time for pictures and phone calls to those who supported you! Return to Camp Berlin to spend the last night at these altitudes.

Day 16: Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. Return hike from Camp Berlin to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp (about 6 hours). Porters will carry the group’s equipment.

Day 17: Mountain guides will organize mules loads for the 8 – 10 hour journey to Puente del Inca. We will be driven from the trailhead to Puente del Inca. This is a good opportunity to enjoy a well-deserved hot shower before enjoying the last dinner on the mountain.

Day 18: After breakfast a mini van will be waiting for the group to take us back again to the hotel in Mendoza City. Farewell dinner at a restaurant in downtown Mendoza to celebrate the climb.

Day 19: Transfer from the hotel to the airport. End of the adventure of a lifetime.

This itinerary must be considered as a guideline only. Even though we will do our best to follow it, several events may cause changes while climbing a mountain of this height.

SERVICES INCLUDED IN THE PRICE

Transportation to and from the Mendoza airport.
One night of lodging in Mendoza before after the climb in double room basis (two nights). Hotel includes breakfast.
Assistance in obtaining the Aconcagua Climbing Permit.
In & Out ground transportation between Mendoza and Puente del Inca with mountain guides (by private vehicles).
Two nights of accommodation in Hosteria Puente del Inca (one before the climb and one after) in a dormitory style rooms with private bathroom (4 to 6 people per room). Dinner and breakfast are included in Puente del Inca.
Help with gear prep. and packing loads for mule transportation.
In & Out transfers between Puente del Inca and Horcones trailhead. Mules will carry climbers personal equipment (30kg / 66 pounds per person) to Camp Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas Base Camp on the way in, and from Plaza de Mulas BC to Puente del Inca (30kg / 66 pounds per person) on the way out.
Two nights camping at Camp Confluencia including sleeping tents.
Acclimatization hike to Plaza Francia (Aconcagua South Face BC).
All expedition meals (approaching hike, Camp Confluencia, Plaza de Mulas BC and altitude camps) and camping facilities.
Five nights camping at Plaza de Mulas BC including sleeping tents.
Instruction of crampons use on the Horcones Glacier.
Permanent radio link to Mendoza and base camps.
Personal equipment storage in Mendoza, Puente del Inca and Plaza de Mulas.
First quality tents in Confluencia, Plaza de Mulas and altitude camps.
Porters. Professional Mountain Guides (one for every 3-4 climbers) accompanying the group from Mendoza and throughout the entire expedition.
Two extra days with all meals either in altitude or in base camp for bad weather or proper acclimatization of the group.

EXPEDITION GUIDES

Ours are National AAGM and Province EPGMT School mountain guides. All speak English. GUIDES TO CLIENTS RATIO Expeditions will be led by one mountain guide (Expedition Leader) and one assistant mountain guide for every 3 clients.

PORTERS

Expeditions include porters to carry teams common equipment (tents, food, cooking supplies) to altitude camps (for both, way up and down).

CONTINGENCY DAYS

Expeditions include two extra days in case of bad weather or for proper acclimatization of the group (not for an individual events since that would cause a delay to the rest of the team's members). Reserve days come with all meals included and take place in either the altitude camps (Plaza Canada, Nido de Condores or Berlin) or even at Base Camp (at BC only before starting the climb). These days can be taken only on Aconcagua. If they are not necessary such days are not replaced by nights in any other place (e.g. Mendoza, Puente del Inca).

EXPEDITIONS SUPPLIED EQUIPMENT

First quality mountain tents (The North Face, Mountain Hardware or similar). Complete cooking supplies for the altitude camps. MSR quality pans. Camping Gaz stoves. Pots. Radio handy FM 2m band. Ropes. Complete medical kit with specific medicine for mountain sickness. MSR liquid fueled stove and a large pan to melt water.

CONFLUENCIA BASE CAMP

This base camp provides food service in dining tents furnished with electric power, tables and chairs. This campsite in Confluencia has its own bathroom facility. Permanent BLU radio link with Mendoza, Plaza de Mulas, Puente del Inca and VHF radio link with Park Rangers and Rescue Patrols.

PLAZA DE MULAS BASE CAMP

This base camp has a dining tent furnished with tables and chairs, electric power, a cooking tent, its own bathroom facilities and a safe place to store your belongings while you are in the altitude camps. Permanent BLU radio link with Mendoza, Plaza de Mulas, Confluencia, and VHF radio link with high camps, Park Rangers and Rescue Patrols.

SERVICES NOT INCLUDED

Air tickets to and from Mendoza.
Aconcagua Climbing Permit.
Extras, food and beverages out of regular supply in Mendoza, Puente del Inca, Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas.
Vegetarian catering (please read "Special services" item).
Abandon of itinerary expenses.
Sleeping bag and personal gear.
Trip cancellation and/or travel insurance.
Porters to carry climbers personal equipment.
Additional hotel nights if for reasons beyond our control (e.g. weather) the group returns early.
Eating utensils.

SPECIAL SERVICES

Vegetarian meals. Single room for the hotel nights in Mendoza.

Available upon request. Please ask for these additional charges and include this information on the application form.

ABANDON OF ITINERARY EXPENSES

Extra camping nights in Plaza de Mulas or Confluencia base camps and hotel nights in Puente del Inca or Mendoza out of the included in the expedition. Extra mules (expedition includes 30kg per person). Ground transportation to Mendoza (expedition includes transportation for the group, but not individual transfers). Expenses incurred in the case of a rescue.

EXTENDED ITINERARY

This is highly recommended for people living at or close to sea level. These climbers have 2 additional days in Plaza de Mulas with all meals, an additional acclimatization guided climbing to a higher than 16,500ft hill in the surrounds of Plaza de Mulas, plus the rest of the services included in the Standard Expedition. These groups members have a total of seven days at base camp (6 before and 1 after the climb). It is required a min. of 4 climbers to operate the Extended Itinerary.

Extended Itinerary

1 Mendoza

2 Puente del Inca

3 Confluencia

4 Confluencia

5 Plaza de Mulas

6 Plaza de Mulas

7 Plaza de Mulas

8 Plaza de Mulas

9 Plaza de Mulas

10 Plaza de Mulas

11 Camp Canada

NECESSARY EQUIPMENT

Headwear: 1 sun hat (it must shade the eyes and nose). 1 balaclava (wool, polypropylene). 1 wool or fleece hat. 1 pair glacier glasses with side protection (and a spare). 1 neck gaiter.

Upper - Lower body: 1 expedition down parka with hood (-20 F). 1 windproof outer jacket with hood (Gore-tex) 1 poly/fleece jacket. 1 expedition weight polypropylene shirt. 2 lightweight, long sleeve polypropylene shirts. 2 heavy polypropylene long underwear (tops and bottoms). 2 t-shirts for lower elevations. 1 pair wind/rain pants (with side zips). 1 pair fleece pants (side zipper). 1 long cotton pant for trekking (legs zip off to become shorts). 1 nylon shorts

Handwear: 2 pairs liner gloves (poly thin). 1 pair medium weight fleece gloves. 1 pair goretex wind shells for mittens. 1 pair wool or fleece mittens. 1 pair overmitts.

Footwear: 1 pair of trekking boots or quality sport shoes. 1 pair of sandals for river crossing. Double plastic climbing boots. 1 pair of gaiters. 2-3 pair of wool socks and polypropylene socks. 3-4 pairs polypropylene, wool or similar socks.

Sleeping Gear: 1 down or synthetic sleeping bag (-20C). 1 light sleeping pad, Thermarest type. Pack: High quality back pack approx. 70-80 liters. Day pack for approach hike and summit day. 1 Large duffel bag with lock to be carried by mules to Base Camp. 1 smaller duffel bag with lock to store gear in Mendoza or Puente del Inca.

Climbing Equipment: 1 ice axe (60-70cm). 1 pair adjustable ski poles. 1 pair of crampons.

Misc: Sun screen and lip protection (UV rating of 20 SPF or more). Headlamp with 3 alkaline battery sets. Metal thermos bottle, 400-500ml. Toiletry kit. Water bottle. Camera and film. Pocket knife (mid size). Book and walkman to spend time in tent. Simple first aid kit. Pee bottle - 1 qt. capacity, wide mouth. Insect repellent coating for hike in clothes. Passport. Cash. Copies of relevant documents (maps, directions, itinerary, etc... all in plastic bags). Journal with pens. Casual clothes for walking around, going to dinner. Small Spanish dictionary with travel phrases. List of critical information.

The above gear list must be used as a guide only.

AT ARRIVAL

Day 1 is free of activities in order to allow climbers arrive in Mendoza at any time accordingly to different options of connecting flights. An Aconcagua Adventures representative will greet you at the airport. A mountain guide will check your equipment at the hotel. In the morning of day 2 customers will be picked up at the hotel to go to for the climbing permit and after that towards Puente del Inca.

USEFUL INFORMATION ACONCAGUA

Mount Aconcagua (22,841ft) is located entirely in the province of Mendoza, in western Argentina. Aconcagua is one of the highest peaks in the world and the very highest outside Asia.

The first climber to successfully reach the summit was Mathías Zurbriggen of Switzerland. He reached the highest point on Aconcagua on 14 January 1897, following the northwest trail (Normal Route), which has since become the most popular path to Aconcagua’s zenith.

Over the years, the number of expeditions arriving at Aconcagua Provincial Park, eager to face the challenge of height, strong winds and extreme temperatures, have increased steadily, making it one of the most popular destinations among mountain climbers the world over. Aconcagua is part of the "seven summits" circuit.

According to some international expert mountaineers that have climbed the Himalayas, the almost 23,000 feet of Aconcagua represent an even greater physiological distance. This phenomenon is due to several factors. The Himalayas, for instance, have vegetation up to 16,400 feet, while in the Central Andes Mountain range the vegetation reaches only to 11,500 / 13,000 feet. The relative ambient humidity is very low and the atmosphere of the Earth is thinner in this region of the globe. All of this makes Aconcagua a terrain appropriate to test and prepare for later expeditions to mountains higher than 8,000 meters.

The East Ridge, (the Polish Glacier), the South West Ridge, as well as the Western Face, all present an opportunity for visitors to demonstrate their ability. The North West Slope of the mountain, where the normal route lies permits the rapid ascension of heights without technical difficulties.

Confront Aconcagua only under the direction of guides. Climbers attempting to climb Aconcagua must properly equipped and in excellent physical condition.

With regard to the Southern Face, it is a desolate and severe area, with poor quality rocks, constant dangers of avalanches of seracs and snow, falling rocks, great unevenness, significant altitude, the threat of brusque climactic changes, plus true and complete isolation. All these are the factors that give it its savage condition

From the technical point of view, Aconcagua presents all types of difficulties on rock, ice and snow. And he who confronts the ascent should have a good climbing technique, excellent physical fitness, considerable experience, and most importantly, a lot of enthusiasm and perseverance.

MENDOZA

The City of Mendoza was founded on 2 March 1561 by the Spanish Don Pedro del Castillo in an area originally inhabited by the Huarpe Indians.

Three centuries later, in 1861, an earthquake completely destroyed the colonial town. Those who survived the earthquake rebuilt a city destined to become one of the most important metropolitan areas in the country.

Mendoza is located in western Argentina, some 690 miles (1,100 kilometers) west of Buenos Aires and at 2,500ft (760 meters) above sea level. It has a population of one million and it is home to numerous industries among them wineries, food processing companies, oil refineries and manufacturers of industrial machinery. Tourism is also an important economic activity in Mendoza. Climate: The province has a semi-arid climate. The mountain range on the west of Mendoza works as a natural barrier to humid winds blowing in from the Pacific.

Local Time Mendoza (as well as the rest of Argentina): is located 4 time zones west of the Greenwich meridian.

Getting to Mendoza: Mendoza's airport also offers excellent connections to international flights from Buenos Aires, Cordoba and Santiago de Chile.

The city is an important hub for land transportation. The city's bus station has several daily services to all Argentinean provinces, as well as to Chile.

Language: Argentina's official language is Spanish. English is spoken at most travel agencies, hotels and tourist information offices.

Power Supply: 220 volts, 50 hertz.

AIRLINES

The usual way to Mendoza is by flying to either Buenos Aires (Argentina) or Santiago (Chile) and then a connecting flight or bus to Mendoza. From Buenos Aires there are 2 hours by plane or 13 hours by bus to Mendoza, while from Santiago 50min by plane or 6 hours by bus.

WHEN TO CLIMB ACONCAGUA

Officially, the climbing season is between November 15th and March 15th of every year. Our suggestion is to climb Mount Aconcagua between late November and late February. This is mainly because of two factors, first because of weather conditions. It is within this period when weather is warmer in the Austral Hemisphere and climate more stable on Aconcagua. Secondly, because it is when there is availability of all necessary logistics to go ahead with the climbs (mules, base camps supplies, porters, etc). Before and after, the lack of visitors might make highly probably that you find no logistics. Regarding weather, large snowfields, strong winds and major snowstorms are a possibility.

CLIMATE

Aconcagua generates its own weather. Between late Nov and late Feb there is a wide range of temperatures, from warm days to freezing nights; snow and winds (some strong) is the usual on Aconcagua. The humidity is extremely low. Mount Aconcagua is some 160 kilometers from the Pacific Ocean (which it is possible to be seen from the summit in sunny days). Humid winds blowing from the sea generate most of the bad weather of Aconcagua. Temperatures to be expected between early Dec and late Feb are around:

Base Camps of Plaza de Mulas and Plaza Argentina Max. 10ºC / 15ºC (50ºF /69Fº) Min. 0ºC / -5ºC (32ºF /23Fº)

Nido de Condores / Camp 1 (Polish Glacier Traverse) Max. 5ºC / 10ºC (41ºF / 50ºF) Min. -10ºC / -15ºC (14ºF / 5ºF)

Berlin / Camp 2 (Polish Glacier Traverse) Max. 0ºC / 5ºC (32ºF / 41ºF) Min. -20ºC / -25ºC (-4ºF / -13ºF)

During the winter in the Austral Hemisphere, most of the area is snow covered and is extremely windy. Major snow storms are quite frequent above 4,000m.

PARK PERMITS

Permits are issued only at Direccion de Recursos Naturales Renovables, located in the Park San Martin (Mendoza City). Office hours are: 8:00 am to 6:00 pm weekdays, and 9:00 am to 1:00 pm Saturdays and Sundays (on December 25th, and January 1st, this Office will be closed. Acquire your permit one day ahead). Permits must be shown to Park Rangers based at the stations of Horcones (Normal Route) and Pampa de Lenas (Polish Glacier Traverse). Please note that some years ago it was possible to obtain the permit at the trailhead, or even outfitters could do it in Mendoza in the name of their customers and send them to the trailhead. Be warmed this is not available any longer. Permits must be acquired in person as compulsory in Mendoza City only.

To obtain the permit it is necessary to complete an application with personal information and general details of the trip.

Types of permits are: Climbing: valid for 20 days after entering the park Long Trekking: valid for 7 days after entering the park Short Trekking: valid for 3 days after entering the park

There are 3 seasons, high, mid and low.

Prices for - Chile Trekking and Adventures