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Nepal Everest Region Trekking Information
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TREKKING IN THE EVEREST REGION
Located in the eastern half of Nepal, the Everest region
offers a wide range of trekking experiences. From the well-developed trail
to Everest base camp to treks in remote semi-wilderness areas, there is a
choice to suit all-corners.
The most frequented part of the region is located in
Solukhumbu district, the home of the legendary Sherpas. The northern part of
the district (Khumbu) is encompassed in the Everest National Park , which
was established to protect the fragile environment of the alpine region. To
the east of the Everest National Park is the Makalu-Barun National Park , a
remote and wild stretch of mountain peaks and deep densely forested valleys.
To the west is the Rolwaling valley, a well protected microcosm of cultures
and ecology. The southern part of the district, Solu is much less frequented
by tourist and be a very rewarding destination in its own right.
Beside Mount Everest there are other 8,000 meter peaks in
the region. Lhotse , Cho Oyu and Makalu and in addition numerous other peaks
lesser altitude but no less stunning. Add to this glacial lakes rhododendron
forest, native flora and fauna, traditional villages and ancient Buddhist
monasteries, all go to make this region a spectacular destination.
Permits and Fees
No special trekking permits are required to visit this
area provided that the trekker's do not climb any of the peaks. An entry fee
is charged for access to Everest National Park . This is payable at the
national park desk in Thamel. For treks to the east of main Everest trail an
addition permit is required to enter Makalu-Barun National Park obtainable
from the same location.
Getting There
Access to the Everest region can only be made by air or on
foot. By road, the only practical road ahead at this time is Jiri, a seven
to ten hour bus ride from Kathmandu. A new road is under construction to
Salleri, the district headquarters, but this will probably be complete for
another five years at least. It is also possible to trek to the Everest
region via the Arun valley where roads head is at Hille, a twenty ride from
the capital. These times are all by local bus as there is no tourist bus
service available at this time. Private cars and taxis could be used and
would reduce the traveling time considerably but obviously at extra cost.
Buses to Jiri currently leave from the old bus park in central Kathmandu.
By air there are three options. The most convenient for
Everest treks is Lukla, which is serviced by many daily flights from
Kathmandu. Three days walk to south, near the district headquarters, is
Phaplu air strip, which is service by daily flights. This is useful for
treks in southern parts of the region or for Everest trekkers who want to
gain extra acclimatization and see some of less developed part of the
district.
The last choice is the small air strip at Syangboche,
which is located above Namche Bazar. While this is an option, its altitude
(3760 meters) makes it an impractical and unwise choice as an arrival
destination for acclimatization reasons.
People and Culture
The main ethnic group that visitors will encounter in the
Everest region is the Sherpas . This is their heartland and their influence
is to be seen everywhere from their traditional dress to their distinctive
houses and village monasteries. There are also minorities of various other
groups, notably Rai/Limbu and Tamang in the lower hills and the ubiquitous
Bhramin and Chhetri farmers of the valleys.
Flora and Fauna
The flora and fauna to be seen are quiet diverse since the
region ranges in altitude from less than 2000 meters above sea level at Jiri
to the high peaks of the Himalaya at over 8000 meters. Up to 4000 meters you
will find dense stands of forest including pine, oak and the spectacular
flowering rhododendrons . The latter are one reason to make a trip in Nepal
in the spring when the hills between 2000 and 3500 meters are a riot of
colors.
The crop under cultivation will depend on the season that
you visit but expect to see wheat, barley, corn and potatoes at some stage.
Domesticated animals will range from cattle, buffalo, goats and pigs to the
all-purpose beast of mountains-the yak
There is a good chance of seeing wildlife, mostly birds
including the national bird of Nepal-the Impeyan Pheasant, or danfe, which
is quite common around Namche Bazar. Other notable birds will include the
ravens and crows of the middle hills and the coughs which soar to seemingly
impossible heights in the mountains. Also in the mountain look for flocks of
snow pigeons wheeling around the hillsides.
Land animals can be most elusive but look out mountain
goats (most commonly the Himalayan tahr) and, if you are lucky, musk deer or
barking deer in the forest.
How and When
How to trek in Everest region depend entirely on the route
that you choose. On the main trail to Everest base camp or the route to
Gokyo valley then teahouse trekking is perfectly possible. The trail in from
Jiri is also endowed with many continently located teahouses although
generally not of such a high standard as those to the north. Other trekking
routes will almost certainly require the use of camping and organization of
trekking staff and equipment. See the following individual route description
for detail.
When to Visit?
The peak season of October/November and March/May are
obviously the most popular. At these times the weather is mild and generally
dry, making the walking conditions good. The spring season is good for wild
flowers, particularly the rhododendrons, while the autumn season generally
gives the best mountain views, as the air at this time is crystal clear.
Winter is possible but the chances of snow are higher and
passes may be closed, particularly during late winter. Also during this time
many of the teahouses will close. The summer/monsoon period is generally
unsuitable for trekking period, as the trails are slippery, leeches abundant
and the mountain views are unpredictable. It can be rewarding time, however,
if you are prepared to tolerate these drawbacks, as the wild flowers are at
their best at this time and there are fewer tourists on the trails making
interaction with the locals easier.
Looking after the environment
Much has been said about the deteriorating environment of
the Himalaya. Over that past few years, due to effort by many overseas
expeditions and organizations such as the Sagarmatha Pollution Control
Committee and Nepal Mountaineering Association, education programmes and
clean-up campaigns have, to a large extent, solved many of the problems.
Having said that, the environment of the high Himalaya is
a very fragile eco-system that is easily put out of balance. The locals
lived for generations in relative harmony with their surroundings but the
recent influx of tourist has put pressure on the indigenous populations to
supply more and more services in the name of tourism development. While the
Everest National Park is somewhat protective from the worst ravages the same
cannot be said about the area immediately to the south. Here, uncontrolled
timber collection for fuel and building has led to a marked loss of timber
cover. Certain initiatives within the National Park area, such as the
banning of glass beer and soft drink bottles, had resulted in a reduction of
the amount of non-biodegradable rubbish being left behind. Much more can be
done, however, particularly by the trekkers themselves. The KEEP code of
trekking conduct is a perfect example.
Everest base Camp
One of the classic treks in Nepal, Everest base camp is
most commonly visited as a two week trek starting and finishing at Lukla,
the airport just to the south of Everest National park.
During the trekking seasons there are numerous daily
flights into and out of Lukla, weather permitting. The flight from
Kathmandu, which takes around forty-five minutes, passes over the fertile
middle hills, with their scattered villages and terraced fields, with an
amazing panorama of the high Himalaya as a backdrop. Before long the
mountains close in and you are sweeping down to land at the gateway to
Everest-Lukla. Situated high above the banks of the Dudh Koshi river, which
carries the melt water from Everest, Lukla provides a range of services,
including accommodation but most trekkers will choose to start trekking as
soon as they arrive and use Lukla as a final destination on their return.
From Lukla trekker must have a gentle, two days trek up
the Dudh Koshi valley to reach Namche Bazar in order to avoid altitude
problems. There are plenty of teahouses along the way for the first night
stop, Phakding (three hours from Lukla) and Monzo (five hours from Lukla)
are the most popular. Just beyond Monzo, trekkers enter the Everest National
Park at the Jorsale check post. Here entry permits will be checked and the
visitor's passport details recorded. The trail, which has been following the
Dudh Koshi since Lukla, starts the ascent to Namche Bazar about one hour
past Jorsale.
Namche Bazar, once a small village but since grown in size
to accommodate the influx of trekkers, is the unofficial capital of the
Sherpas. It was once an important trading centre on the route from Tibet to
Nepal but has now been largely given over to catering for the needs of
trekkers. There is a multitude of teahouse, equipment shops, curio sellers,
restaurant and even cyber cafes that make just about anything the trekker
could need, available, albeit at a higher price than in Kathmandu. For
acclimatization reasons, trekkers must spend two nights in or around Namche,
Which gives the opportunity to explore some of the less developed and more
traditional villages in the area.
One of the nicest destination for the acclimation day is
to walk to Thame, home of many famous mountaineering Sherpas, including
Tenzing Norgay of Everest fame. Often Danfe (Impeyan Pheasant) and Himalaya
Tahr can be seen along this trail. The round trip is quite a hard day's walk
taking a minimum of eight hours. An option would be to stay the night at one
of the teahouse at Thame and retrace your steps the next day. While at Thame,
be sure to visit the Buddhist monastery, which is located on hillside about
a thirty-minute walk above the village. The valley to the north of Thame
leads to Tibet via the Nangpa la, the pass traditionally used by Sherpa and
Tibetan traders. The valley to the west of Thame leads to the Trashi Labsta
pass and the Rolwaling valley.
Easier option for passing the acclimatization day can be
found by visiting the twin Sherpa villages of Khumjung and Khunde, which are
about a two-hour walk above Namche. While in Khunde, visit the hospital,
which was established and funded by sir Edmund Hillary's Himalayan trust.
Khumjung monastery is interesting as being the store place of one of the
alleged yeti scalp that is to be found in the region.
Moving on from Namche Bazar the trail follows the valley
of the Imja khola with some spectacular views of the mountains including
Thamserku, Kangtega and Ama Dablam and, dominating the skyline ahead,
Everest and Lhotse. The most common night stop after Namche is at the top of
a steep climb from the Imja khola, at Thyangboche. This is the site of one
of the most significant Buddhist monasteries in Solukhumbu and a visit is
well recommended. Tours of the monastery are conducted each afternoon. If
the teahouse and campsites at Thyangboche are full, a common occurrence in
the main season, then more lodging can be found a further thirty minutes
along the trail at Deboche. The ramshackle nunnery, an extension of the
Thyangboche monastery, at Deboche makes an interesting site trip.
Following the Imja khola from Thyangboche the trekking
route climbs gradually through pangboche and emerges above the tree line.
Eventually, after a long day's trek, you reach the next night's stop at
either Pheriche or Dingboche. Here another rest/acclimatization day trip
being to Chhukung, around three hours walk above Dingboche. The mountain
panorama around Chhukung is nothing short of amazing with the massive south
face of Lhotse rearing above it to the north and a ring of lesser peaks
surrounding it.
From Dingboche or Pheriche it takes another six hours of
trekking to reach the cluster of teahouse at Lobuche sited on the lateral
moraine of the khumbu glacier. Above Lobuche it is another three hours walk
to the last settlement on the trail at Gorak Shep. Here a few basic
teahouses provide shelter for the night before undertaking the final leg of
the trek up the glacier to Everest base camp. Above Gorak Shep rises the
well-known landmark of Kala Pattar. A climb of two to three hours will
reward the trekker with a marvelous vista. Barely eight kilometers to the
east is the summit of Everest and just to the most beautiful mountains to be
found anywhere.
The trek along the glacier to base camp can take up to
five hours depending on the trail conditions. Care should be taken while
traveling here, as route finding can be a problem and there are no
facilities at base camp (expeditions are generally reluctant to entertain
visiting trekkers) so it is important to make sure that you have food and
drinks for the return trip. Descending from base camp, most trekkers will
reach at least Lobuche, if not further, by nightfall.
The return trek to Lukla basically follows the upward
route but rest days are obviously not necessary. The route can be varied, to
make the return more interesting, by diverting through upper pangboche and
returning to Namche via Phortse (looks for herds of tahr on the hillsides),
Mong La and Khumjung. Pangboche, which has few teahouses and campsite, is an
interesting place to spend a night. The monastery here is one of the oldest
in Solukhumbu and also has yeti relics.
Khumjung would make an interesting alternative stopping
place to Namche Bazar if trekkers wished to avoid the hustle and bustle of
the bazaar.
If you haven't arranged for somebody to reconfirm your
flight out of Lukla for you, be sure to reach there as early as possible on
the day before departure in order to make sure that your seat doesn't
disappear. Arriving in Lukla on the day of departure is inviting a lost
seat.
Gokyo Valley
An alternative, or even better, an addition, to the
Everest Base Camp trek is the trek up to the Gokyo valley. Gokyo is located
in the valley immediately west of the Everest (Khumbu) valley and is far
less developed and crowded than its better-known neighbor to the east. In
fact, the Gokyo valley only has one traditional permanent settlement, the
rest being summer pastures now catering to the passing trekkers.
If Gokyo is visited after trek to Everest base camp the
extra distance only adds a another five days to the itinerary. If Gokyo is
visited independently of Everest then care needs to be taken on the upward
leg of the trek, as the altitude gain is much greater, leading to many
unwary trekkers having problems with AMS. Both options will be described
here.
If Gokyo is the ultimate destination rather than Everest
then the Everest trail is followed as far as the teahouses at Kenjoma (where
the trail from Khumjung joins the main trail). From here the Gokyo trail
climbs up the hillside to a pass at Mong La before dropping steeply back
down to the banks of the Dudh Koshi. The next two hours of trekking, through
beech, rhododendron and oak forest, past waterfalls, which are often frozen,
and ultimately through pine forests before breaking out above the tree line
is one of the best sections of any trail in the area. Just above the trees
line are the teahouses of dole, a convenient stopping place for the first
night.
The following day must be very short if you are to avoid
altitude problems. it only takes around for hours to reach Machherma but
this is as far as most trekkers should travel that day. The valley that
leads west above Manchherma is well worth an afternoon visit. it is here
that the last reported sighting of a yeti was made. A yeti sighting unlikely
but the valley is stunning none the less. The rocky bulk of Kyajo Ri, an
unclimbed and impressive peak, dominates the head of the valley.
The final push up to Gokyo takes you past the teahouses at
Pangkha and up the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier, the largest
glacier in Nepal. Just above the moraine is the first of the glacial lakes
for which Gokyo is renowned. If it isn't frozen, look for migrating ducks on
the lake surface. The trail passes two more lakes to reach the teahouses of
Gokyo about four to five hours after leaving Machherma.
The Gokyo valley is dominated at its head by the massive
form of Cho Oyu, at 8153 meters the eight highest peaks on earth. Many
options are available in the upper Gokyo valley. The most common destination
is the rock hill above the third lake known as Gokyo Ri or Gokyo Kala Pattar.
This hill, which takes at least two hours to climb, provides an even better
panorama than the one seen from the more famous Kala Pattar at Gorak Shep
(see Everest base camp trek description). To get the most out of a climb of
Gokyo Ri, leave the teahouses at least two hours before dawn in order to
have a sunrise view of the Himalaya. Other options include an additional day
spent trekking further up the valley past the fourth and fifth lakes to Cho
Oyu base camp. It must be remembered that there are no facilities beyond
Gokyo and all trekkers must be self-sufficient.
There are two high passes leading out of the Gokyo valley.
The most traveled in Cho la pass which connects with the khumbu valley near
Lobuche and the other is the renjo la pass that joins the trail between
Thame and Nangpa la. Both of these are serious undertakings that require
some basic mountaineering skills and equipment depending on weather
conditions. Teahouse trekkers have successfully crossed Cho la but the risk
of sudden storm, which could trap unprepared trekkers, is always possible.
Neither pass should be attempted without a competent guide.
if you are visiting the Gokyo valley in addition to
Everest base camp it is as far better to trek to Gokyo after visiting
Everest ,for acclimatization reasons. Follow the Everest trek route
described previously and take the alternative exit route as far as Phortse.
From here, follow the eastern side of the valley through some isolated
settlements, which include the village of Konar, the only permanent
settlement above Phortse. The trail climbs, mostly gently, up the valley
with some superb view of Cho Oyu in front and Thamserku and Kangtega behind.
There are no facilities available on the side of the valley until the small
teahouse at nah is reached after about six hours walking from Phortse.
Trekkers should therefore carry their supplies for the day. Nah is a good
place to camp but for teahouse accommodation Pangkha, another hour further
on, has far better facilities. From here the previously described trail is
followed to Gokyo.
Jiri to Lukla
An alternative to taking the flight to Lukla is to trek in
from the road ahead at Jiri. Jiri can be reached by local bus from Kathmandu
in seven to ten hours depending on road conditions or by taxi or private car
in five to six hours. There are no tourist bus services available. A newly
opened extension to the road beyond Jiri currently reaches the village of
Shivalaya but, since the bus takes over two hours from Jiri and walk takes
barely three hours it makes little sense to take the bus.
The trek from Jiri to Lukla takes an average of seven days
and gives preparation for the Everest base camp trek. It is never flat as it
crosses the grain of the land for the first five days. The highest point
reached before Lukla is Lamjura La pass, which is at 3530 meters above sea
level. A highlight of the area around the Lamjura La is the magnificent
display of pink and lilac rhododendrons in spring.
The trek passes through parts of Solukhumbu that are
relatively undeveloped compared with the northern part of the district
around Namche Bazaar. This enables trekkers to experience many traditional
aspects of the culture of the local people that are less easy to see above
Lukla. The trail passes through numerous settlements of different ethnic
groups including Tamang, Jirel, Rai, Brahmin and Chhetri and, of course, the
Sherpas. The trail is well serviced, with trekking teahouses and good
campsites in most of the settlements. starting trekking from Jiri the night
halts will most likely be at the villages of Deurali, Kenja, Sete, Lamjura,
Junbesi, Trasindho, Karki Khola and Surkne(below Lukla). The most
interesting of these stops is probably Junbesi, the oldest Sherpa settlement
in Solu. An extra day spent here will be time well spent. The local teahouse
owners will arrange guided day trips if you are traveling without your own
guide but the main points of interest are the monastery of Thupten Chholing,
about an hour above Junbesi and the villages of Mabung and Pangkarma which
are en route to the monastery. The monastic school at Phungmoche, an hour
above Thupten Chholing is also worth visiting and can offer guest
accommodation for limited numbers.
Below the pass at Tragsindho the trail falls over 1500
meters to cross the Dudh Koshi. Here it follows the river and joins the main
trail to Everest Base Camp below Lukla.
Other treks around Solu
The southern part of Solukhumbu (Solu) holds many
attractions as a destination in its own right. The options are many but the
best known of treks are the nine day trek over Pike, the Dudh kunda trek and
treks east of the district headquarters at Salleri. None of these routes are
serviced with so trekkers must be fully self-sufficient.
Over Pike Danda
This trek, of nine day's duration, usually starts in Jiri
and ends with a flight back to Kathmandu from Phaplu. It is also possible to
continue on from Phaplu and join the Everest trek at Ringmo, the village
below the Tragsindho La pass. The highest of the trek is the stunning view
from the top of pike, which includes Everest as well as a great number of
lesser snow-capped peaks.
To travel over Pike Danda, follow the Jiri to Lukla trek
as far as the Likhu Khola, before Kenja. The route then climbs steeply
through the villages of Goli Gompa and Ngaur before reaching the 4065 meter
summit of Pike. Descent to Phaplu is via the Sherpa village of Lodingma,
home of several Everest summiteers .there is an alternative, rough, trail
that joins the Jiri to Lukla trail near Lamjura La.
Due to the high altitude of Pike, trekkers must be
particularly careful to watch for signs of AMS and be prepared to spend
extra nights at Goli or Ngaur if necessary.
To Dudh Kunda
The sacred lake of Dudh kunda lies at the base of
Mt.Nambur, the mountain regarded by the locals as being the home of the
protective deity of Solu. In August there is an influx of devotees who come
to perform cleansing ritual at the lake. At other time you are unlikely to
meet anyone on this rarely traveled trail.
The main trail to Dudh kunda starts at Ringmo on the route
between Junbesi and Tragsindho La. an alternative route to the lake starts
at Thupten Chholing and follows a spectacular, isolated ridge through dense
forest and then opens, and sometimes rocky, yak grazing pastures to join the
main trail at Sarsarbeni. This latter trail is quite remote and a local
guide may be needed if your staff is unfamiliar with the route.
From Ringmo, the trek to Dudh kunda takes a minimum of
five days but at least one extra day for exploring around the lake should be
allowed for. While at the lake, be sure to walk right around its shore and
look for the spring, high up on the Northeastern side which is considered to
be the source of the holy water.
There are several additional option for extending treks
above Dudh Kunda but the remote nature of the country makes a locally
experienced guide essential.
Treks around Salleri
The district headquarters of Solukhumbu can make an
interesting base for several short walks visiting local villages and
viewpoints. Salleri itself has few tourists but Phaplu, an hour's walk to
the north, boasts a range of teahouse options and also has suitable camping
sites.
The Chailsa-Chiwong Circuit
One of the nicest short treks follows the ridge above
Salleri, to the east. This ridge the Ratanji Danda, gives mountain views
across Makalu Barun N.P and also distant views of Everest. The route follows
the ridge north as far as Tragsindho. then a circuit can be completed by
following the valley back to Phaplu .along the trek highlights are the
views, well preserved forest, the Tibetan resettlement camp at Chailsa
(above Salleri) and the Buddhist monastery at Chiwong. Chiwong is famous for
the Mani Rimdu festival held here each year in November. At least four
nights should be allowed for this trek starting and ending in Phaplu.
There are many other possibilities in the area including
reversing the Pike Danda trek described previously. Seek advice from local
teahouse owners for details.
The Hinkhu and Hongu Valleys
Located to the west of Solukhumbu is the secluded and
rarely visited Rolwaling valley. The upper reaches of the valley are
connected to the Solukhumbu by the high and difficult pass of Trashi Labsta.
Trekkers contemplating trek that connects Rolwaling with khumbu should
always travel from east to west (khumbu to Rolwaling). To attempt to do the
trek in reverse is likely to result in technical and altitude problems. The
trek, particularly the crossing of Trashi Labsta, is one of the more
difficult treks in Nepal and should only be attempted by self-sufficient,
strong and experienced parties. Some basic mountaineering skills are
required. Staff, particularly porters, must be experienced and from the
district. For good acclimatization, a trek to Everest Base Camp or Gokyo,
prior to crossing over to Rolwaling, is an excellent idea.
The route to Trashi Labsta starts at Thame (see Everest
Base Camp description).it takes two nights to reach Trashi Labsta which,
ideally, should be crossed early in the day to avoid rock fall from the
slopes above. The pass is usually ice covered and porters carrying large
loads will need assistance. If camping at the peaks, be careful to choose a
campsite that is well away from the rock fall area.
The next two days are spent traveling down the Drolambao
glacier. There are two icefalls on the route, which usually require the use
of ropes to descend. At the end of the glacier is the massive Cho Rolpa
glacial lake. This lake, which is now being drained, was at one time
threatening to burst and inundate much of the Rolwaling valley.
After the glacier the upper Rolwaling valley is hemmed in
by mountains on both sides with the bulk of Gauri Shankar on the northern
side. The settlements on Nah and Beding are Sherpa villages, Nah being only
a summer settlement. As you descended below beding the valley becomes
forested first with juniper and pines and later the vegetation becomes
lusher. The Sherpas give way to people of the middle hills mainly Tamang and
Brahmins. After seven days from Trashi Labsta the end of the trek is reached
at Charikot on the Kathmandu to Jiri road.
Everest to the Arun valley
As an alternative to Jiri or Lukla the Everest trek can be
started or ended by trekking across to the valley in the eastern side of
Nepal. The starting point can be Hille if traveling by road or Tumlingtar if
a flight is preferred. Getting to or from Hille involves a lengthy bus
journey from Kathmandu of around fourteen hours. If this route is taken an
entry permit for Makalu Barun National Park is required.
If using the Arun valley as an alternative exit, the route
leaves the main Everest trail at Kharte, the village above Khari Khola. It
generally travels south east crossing the major rivers in the area, the
Hindu Khola and the Hongu Khola, and two high passes, the Pangkoma la (3350
meters) and the Salpa La (3350 meters). Both of these passes give good views
of the mountains to the north. The scenery along the trail ranges from mixed
farming land and scattered Sherpa and Rai villages to stands of forest
including rhododendron and oak. After trekking for five days from where
several flights a week connect with Kathmandu and Biratnagar. A further two
days trek to the south is Hille from where daily buses operate to Kathmandu.
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