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India Trekking
ABODE OF THE GODS
HIMACHAL PRADESH, NORTHERN INDIA
INTRODUCTION
Overlooking Dharmsala and the
Kangra valley in Himachal Pradesh lies Dharamkot (7,200ft/2,195m), home to the
Butterworths whose family have lived in India for many generations. Dharamkot
is a protected wildlife sanctuary and the base from which this trek is
organised. The area is renowned for wildlife. In recent years a leopard killed
the Butterworths' chickens! But besides leopards, there exist black bears,
porcupine, various types of deer and mountain goats, langur and rhesus monkeys,
jackals, pine marten, and the local equivalent of the yeti known as a Gye. The
bird life is fantastic, ranging from a host of brightly-coloured small species
to parrots, griffon vultures, lamagier, eagles and different types of forest
pheasant. Home to the Gaddi people who live a semi-nomadic lifestyle, the Abode
of the Gods lies between the Dhaula Dhar range of mountains and the Kangra
valley. It is an enchanting region of heavily wooded glades of pine, oak and
rhododendron trees, green meadows and shrines dedicated to the Goddess Durga.
Christina Noble's book 'Over
the High Passes' gives a perfect description of the Gaddi people and this
region: Publisher: FORTANA/COLLINS. ISBN 0-00-637350-X Eloise Napier’s book ‘A
Place to Walk’ (Conran publishers) also features this trek in unforgettable
walking holidays from around the world.
The Gaddi shepherds migrate
annually with their small flocks of sheep and goats in search of grazing areas,
a search that will entail covering mountainous terrain and crossing high passes
for six months of the year. A proud and hospitable people, the Gaddi shepherds
are superstitious and devout worshippers of the Goddess Durga, whose name they
invoke for protection against evil spirits and to ensure a safe journey over
mountain passes. During the trek we camp close to Gaddi hamlets and sometimes
share a campsite; visitors are always welcome. This trek also encompasses a
visit to the Dalai Lama's present town of exile, an Indian rail journey (a
fascinating experience in its own right!) and some time to glimpse a little of
Delhi, India's teeming capital.
This is a very pretty trek
in an unspoilt part of the Himalaya. You are unlikely to see any other
Europeans. The spring trek enjoys a wealth of rhododendron: the locals collect
the petals to make jam.
DAY BY DAY ITINERARY
DAY 1-:
Arrive Delhi International airport. After clearing
customs, you will be met by our representatives who will be holding a
placard and transferred by taxi to your hotel.
Day 2- :
SIGHTSEEING THEN TRANSFER TO OVERNIGHT
TRAIN. You
check out at midday and in the afternoon we provide transport and an
English-speaking guide to take you on a sightseeing tour of Old and New Delhi.
Our tour of Delhi will include the Raj Ghat memorial, the Red Fort, once the
most lavish fort and palace of the Mughal Empire and the Qutb Minar, the 73m
high tower of victory. This is followed by an evening (approx. 19.00 hours)
transfer to the railway station to board the express train to Pathankot,
travelling in air-conditioned sleeper compartments. The Express is due
to depart at 21.00 hours.
DAY 3-: ARRIVE
PATHANKOT, DRIVE TO MCLEOD GANJ.
The train arrives at 07.20 hrs. A two and a half hour taxi ride takes us to
McLeod Ganj (6,200ft/1,890m). You break your journey to have breakfast at Kotla.
McLeod Ganj is home to a thriving Tibetan community, who settled here with the
Dalai Lama in 1959. In the afternoon there is a sightseeing tour laid on for
those that wish, otherwise the time is yours to explore the town or relax at the
Hotel. Evening pre trek briefing. Overnight at the Hotel Tibet.
DHARAMSALA & McLEODGANJ
Population approx. 21,000.
Founded in 1855, it has one of the most spectacular settings for a Hill
Station. It is built along a spur of the Dhauladhar range and varies in height
from 4,500ft at the bazaar to 5,900ft at McLeod Ganj. It is surrounded by trees
and is set against a backdrop of peaks rising to over 15,600ft/4,755m on three
sides. The great granite mountains almost overhang the town. Views are superb,
not only of the mountains but also over the Kangra Valley and Siwaliks. There
are two sections to the town, the upper part is McLeod Ganj and the lower is
called Dharmsala. The distance between them is almost 10km by road from centre
to centre but there is a shorter, steeper path that takes about 40 minutes to
cover. In both there is a strong Tibetan influence.
The Dalai Lama settled here
after his flight across the Himalaya following the Chinese invasion of Tibet in
October 1959. There is a monastery at McLeod Ganj, a short distance along from
the Dalai Lama's residence, and a Library.
Dharmsala was one of the 80
hill stations established by the British between 1815 and 1847 though it was not
on a par with Shimla, Nainital and Mussoorie in terms of popularity and size.
The Church of St John-in-the-Wilderness (1860) is a short distance below McLeod
Ganj on the way to Forsythganj. Along with other buildings in the area it was
destroyed by the earthquake of 1905 but has been rebuilt. The 8th Lord of
Elgin, one of the few Viceroys to die in office, is buried here. Apparently, it
was his wish as it reminded him of his beloved native Scotland. There are some
very attractive stained glass windows.
Nowadays McLeod Ganj is home
to a large community of Tibetans who settled here in the years following 1959
with their spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama.
DAY 4-: TREK
TO GEHRA
(6,000ft/1,829m). Approx. 5 hours walk. After breakfast you leave
Mcleod Ganj behind and ascend into pine and rhododendron forest before reaching
Dal Lake. The highest point of today's walk is just before Dal Lake at around
6,700ft/2,042m (not to be confused with the Kashmir lake!) for an early lunch.
To continue our journey you pass several hamlets before descending towards Gehra,
your first campsite. There is a chance to swim and rest tired feet in the nearby
river. You may well see monkeys in this area.
DAY 5- :
TREK TO NOLI. (7,000ft/2,134m). Approx. 5 hours walk. Morning
tea is brought to you first thing. After a leisurely breakfast, you make your
way along winding shepherd trails, through a valley dotted with villages and
cultivated terraces until you reach Kereri, a small village inhabited by Gaddi
shepherds where you have lunch. Here there is a one hundred year old Forest
Officer's bungalow. Built by the British, it was part of a system of local
administration. Many villages have Water Buffalo and you may well see the men
and women spinning and weaving wool. In the afternoon you have a gradual ascent
through pine, oak and rhododendron forest to reach Noli, gateway to the domain
of the Gaddi shepherds. Camp beside wooden bridge at Noli.
DAY 6-: TREK
TO THE BASE OF THE KERERI LAKE.
(8,500ft). Approx. 6 hours
walk. We strike camp at 8.30 am and continue deeper into the valley along a
forest trail that leads you towards the Daula-Dhar mountains, having lunch
en-route. In the afternoon you continue your ascent through pine and
rhododendron forest until we reach our campsite.
DAY 7 -: TREK TO
KERERI LAKE.
(10,500ft/3,200m). Approx. 4 hours walk. A gradual ascent through thick pine
and bearded oak forest until we reach Kereri lake situated at the base of the
Minkiani pass. Camp at Kereri Lake. The afternoon is free to explore the
surrounding high ridges that offer spectacular views of both the Kangra valley
below and the Dhaula-Dhar mountain range. There is a temple here just near the
lakeside.
DAY 8 –: TREK
TO RHELLA.
(8,000ft/2,438m). Approx. 5 hours walk. There is a leisurely
start to the day as you continue your journey by crossing a ridge and descending
into unspoilt valleys of rhododendron and wild chestnut trees, green meadows
with alpine flowers and clear mountain streams, before reaching Rhella, your
next camping area. Lunch along the way. Camp at Rhella.
DAY 9 –: REST DAY.
Time to
relax in the camp and go swimming in the nearby river.
DAY 10-:
TREK TO LAKA
RIVER. (6,200ft) Approx. 6 hours walk. You follow in the footsteps of
the Gaddi shepherds, winding your way down Rhella Valley and stop for lunch
beside a river. We walk over intermediate ridges, before descending towards our
campsite near Laka river before descending towards our campsite near Laka river.
In the afternoon there is an optional walk to Guna temple, 7,000ft/2,134m,
(approx 2 hours walk, there and back) a pilgrimage centre for the Gaddi
shepherds. Sightings of the Goddess have been reported in this area and
pilgrims travel great distances to offer their respects. camp at Laka river.
DAY 11-: TREK TO
TRIUND.
(9,000ft/2,743m). Approx. 5 hours walk. A gradual climb past cultivated
terraced fields and village hamlets brings us to Gullu ridge 7,500ft/2,286m,
where you have lunch. A long afternoon walk takes you to Triund, situated at
the foot of the Dhaula-Dhar range. You camp on a meadow with views of the peaks
above and the Kangra valley below.
DAY 12-: TREK
TO LAKA.
(11,000ft/3,353m). Approx. 4 hours walk. After breakfast a rocky trail leads
you through pine forest in a steady ascent to Lake Got (11,000ft/3,353m), at the
base of the Indra-Har pass (14,100ft/4,328m). Camp Laka.
DAY 13-:
OPTIONAL WALK TO THE INDRA HAR PASS. WALK TO DHARAMKOT.
(14,100ft/4,328m).
An early morning start for those who want to climb the Indra Har pass. (approx 4
hrs walk) From the pass you will be rewarded by views of the Pir Panjal
Himalayas and Mount Kailash, the abode of Shiva. Packed lunch en route. In the
afternoon we will walk to Dharamkot, (approx 3 hours walk) a protected nature
reserve and home to the Butterworth family. This lies on a wooded ridge, with
views up to the craggy peaks of the Dhaula Dhar ridge - the most beautiful
perhaps being Moon Peak (15,100ft/4,604m). There are also very fine views
across the Kangra valley. The protected status of the woods means that much of
the wildlife is relatively tame; some very fine pheasants can be seen, including
chir pheasant and Khalij pheasant. Accommodation will be in stone cottages or
tents.
DAY 14-:
RETURN TO MCLEOD GANJ, VISIT TIBETAN CENTRES, THEN DRIVE TO PATHANKOT FOR
TRAIN TO DELHI. There is a 1 hour walk down through the woods from
Dharamkot to McLeod Ganj. The day is spent exploring the Tibetan handicrafts
centre run by the Dalai Lama's sister. You will also visit the Tibetan
children’s' village, a refugee centre for homeless Tibetan children. You then
drive back to Pathankot to catch the 17.45 overnight train back to Delhi.
DAY 15-:
ARRIVE DELHI Early morning (5.45am) and transfer to your Delhi
hotel. (Check in at 12 noon) Rest of day at leisure. Overnight hotel.
DAY 16 –:
TRANSFER BY TAXI to the airport to board your return flight home.
Maximum Altitude
11,000ft/3,353m optional 14,100ft/4328m
EQUIPMENT & SERVICES PROVIDED.
When we receive your booking
we will send you a full India travel guide, which contains a suggested gear and
clothing list. If you do have queries at this initial stage do ring us and we
will be pleased to offer advice.
ACCOMMODATION:
DELHI:
We use the Oberoi Maiden hotel, a comfortable 4-star hotel. Facilities include
swimming pool, bar, coffee shop, restaurants room service and it is fully
air-conditioned. This hotel is a 30 minute drive away from Connought Place.
MCLEODGANJ: Hotel
Tibet.
Basic clean comfortable accommodation and friendly service in one of the best
local hotels.
WEATHER: The
best weather in this part of Himachal Pradesh is from late Autumn to Spring with
warm sunny days and pleasant nights. It can be quite hot during the day (up to
25°C) at lower altitudes and at higher altitudes (over 10,000ft) the temprature
can drop to -1°C at night. In late March/April there is the added attraction to
many of rhododendron in bloom.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Whilst
every effort is made to keep to the above itinerary, clients will hopefully
appreciate that this is adventure travel in a remote mountain region. Given
the nature of these treks there will quite likely be changes to the itinerary in
terms of anything from on the spot choice of camp site to the day that a rest
day is taken. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns off
the beaten track, local availability of porters, can contribute to the need for
changes. Your trek leader will do everything in his/her power to see that you
are inconvenienced as little as possible in such events.
Timings given are approximate.
MEAL PLAN:
B&B in Delhi and elswhere. Full board on Trek
NOT INCLUDED: Air travel*.
Alcohol, bottled water or soft drinks. Entry fees to monuments of historical
importance. The Taj Mahal is closed to the public on Fridays.
TRANSPORT: Transport is by private
car/coach with an English speaking driver.
SPENDING MONEY: You
should allow about £5 a day for incidentals and tips, perhaps a little more if
you enjoy a few beers as these are comparatively expensive in India.
INSURANCE: It is a condition of
joining any of our tours that you hold adequate insurance cover. This must
include medical and personal accident insurance.
TRAIN TRAVEL. Overnight train travel
is by 4 or 6 berth air-conditioned sleeper compartments. Depending on
availability, train* travel is usually in 1st A/C (fifties style 4
berth cabins with cabin doors) or 2nd A/C (4 & 6 berth cabins with
pull to curtains for privacy) On some routes the only class available (apart
from 2nd class non a/c) is 3rd class A/C which is 3 tier
on either side of the carriage with a shared passage. Bedding is normally
supplied free of charge. (pillows, sheets and blankets) * Train times are
subject to confirmation by our agents in India.
NOT INCLUDED: Entry fees* to
monuments of historical importance. *Expect to pay between £2.00 and £6.00 per
person for entry fees to monuments of historical importance in Delhi and
elsewhere.
TIPPING: If you are trekking with us
it is customary at the end of the trek for members of the group to pool a small
sum of money and any surplus clothing, which is then given to the Trek Leader
for distribution among the staff. Of course, tipping is a privilege and not a
right and you are at liberty to give as much or as little as you wish. Your
Trek leader will be happy to field a discussion as to what you may like to give,
generally we advise about £1.50 per client for each day on trek in local
currency or the dollar equivalent. In the event that you are not entirely
satisfied with the service provided, you are asked to make your feelings known
to the Trek Leader.
RECOMMENDED READING: The Lonely
Planet India Travel Guide and Rough Guides Travel To India.
Timings given are approximate
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Whilst
every effort is made to keep to the above itinerary, clients will hopefully
appreciate that this is adventure travel in a remote mountain region. Given
the nature of these treks there will quite likely be changes to the itinerary in
terms of anything from on the spot choice of camp site to the day that a rest
day is taken. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns off
the beaten track, local availability of porters, can contribute to the need for
changes. Your trek leader will do everything in his/her power to see that you
are inconvenienced as little as possible in such events.
Timings given are approximate.
EQUIPMENT PROVIDED. We provide ‘A’
frame or dome tents which have room for two people plus all of your equipment.
There is also a dining tent, a toilet tent exclusively for our group use, and a
kitchen and staff tent. There are camp chairs or stools, a kerosene/gas lamp or
candles for reading in the dining tent* at night, stainless steel crockery and
tableware and *foam sleeping mats. (*subject to availability) We strongly
recommend you bring your own karrimat or therma-a-rest as well. The
staff complement of cooks and assistants are always in attendance. They put up
and take down the tents, make the tea, cook the food, wash the dishes, load the
porters and carry a load of their own. They work extremely hard and are always
willing to help. If you want to join in putting up tents and taking them down,
you are free to do so, but it is not expected.
*Dining tents are heavy to carry and are only
provided for a minimum of 4 people. For under 4 people a smaller tent will be
provided.
A TYPICAL DAY ON TREK
Soon after dawn you are served tea or coffee while still in your
sleeping bag. A few minutes later a washing bowl of hot water is placed outside
your tent. You can wash inside or outside the tent. Once dressed you can pack
your kit-bag and day-pack in preparation for the day’s hike, and place these
outside the tent. The camp staff will take down the tents. While this is
happening, breakfast is served. In the Himalaya breakfast usually consists of
cereals and/or porridge with milk, eggs, usually served with chapatis,
(unleavened bread that is cooked on a hot iron plate) or pancakes with honey or
jam. There is always plenty of tea and coffee. The
camp will be being struck while you are eating, and you will need to be packed
and out of your tents before breakfast.
You can take a leisurely breakfast while the staff prepare loads for the
porters or pack animals. If you have not filled up your water bottle the night
before ask the cook (Before breakfast is served) to fill your bottle with boiled
water. You may also collect a packed lunch, although usually you may have a
cooked meal at the lunch stop. Departure from camp could be from any time
between dawn and 9.00am, depending on the days itinerary, but generally you will
start walking at around 8.00am.
Depending on the length of the day’s walk, you will walk for
three or four hours before stopping for lunch. The lunch stop will last for
about an hour.
You usually arrive at the next camp site by 4:00pm. Camp may
already set up by the time you get there, and tea/juice and biscuits will be
ready to welcome you. Supper will be ready soon after dark, and will be served
in the dining tent or in some instances, around the camp fire. Camp fires will
only be made if dead wood is available. The standard of cooking on trek is
usually surprisingly good, with the style of cooking being a compromise between
local and western food. Menus vary, but typically we start with soup. The main
course is often a rice based meal with meat stew or mild curry, plus separate
vegetable and salad dishes. A sweet dish is provided after the meal. Our meal
is finished with tea, coffee or hot chocolate. Sometimes a bottle of local
spirit is provided by the camp staff, but we advise clients to buy plastic half
bottles from duty free. However, you should only drink alcohol when you feel
acclimatised. After dinner, the usual practise is for your water bottle to be
filled with hot water and used as a hot water bottle for your sleeping bag and
for drinking water the next day.
We would like you to enjoy the serenity of the unhurried
atmosphere that exists in these wilderness regions. Our day to day camp routine
on your trekking adventure is geared to allow you to make the most of your
holiday.
Important:
Before you travel please check your Tour Voucher and Arrival
Information for the latest joining instructions. This will be sent to you
upon receipt of final payment.
All itineraries
are subject to change without prior notice.
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