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India Trekking
IN THE SHADOW OF NANDA DEVI
A classic trek that
retraces the pioneering steps of Shipton and Tilman through the Garwhal
Himalaya.
Introduction
The Nanda Devi basin
must surely be one of the most legendary regions in the entire Himalayan chain.
The mountain itself, revered since time immemorial by all those who live in its
shadow, has long attracted the attention of the pioneering mountaineers and
explorers, mystics and spiritualists, writers and everyday travellers who have
visited the area. Everest may well be the highest peak in the world but the
beautiful peak of Nanda Devi must surely be the most fascinating.
The area first came
to the attention of the Western world as a result of the 19th century
explorations by Traill, Graham and Longstaff but shot to fame in the 1930's when
Shipton and Tilman forced a route into the Inner Sanctuary. Nanda Devi is the
highest mountain situated completely within India and is surrounded by a ridge
wall of nearly 6000m. The only break in this wall is the Rishi Ganga, a wild
and seemingly impenetrable gorge. This amazing feat of endurance and
determination was capped when Tilman later returned to conquer the peak itself.
Sadly, the mystic of the area led to an excess of expeditions and ecological
damage and the Sanctuary was closed in the 1980's. Investigations are currently
underway to assess the recovery.
Understandably, the
country that surrounds the Sanctuary now has its own attractions for walkers and
pilgrims alike. The immediate landscape has been beautifully tamed by centuries
of low-key habitation and cultivation but the constant backdrop of the mighty
Himalayan peaks makes for a magnificence unrivalled elsewhere in the region.
Route Profile
This classic trek
takes us across the picturesque meadows and valleys that border the western edge
of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. Sometimes known as the Curzon Trail after the
British Viceroy that enjoyed this area, the route we follow was used by Shipton
and Tilman on their amazing journey to the Nanda Devi basin. During the trek
there are many views of the surrounding peaks and the Kuari Pass (3658m) itself
has an unrivalled panorama of the Great Himalayan peaks including Nanda Devi
(7816m), Changabang (6864m), Dunagiri (7066m) and Kamet (7756m). The trails are
generally good, being in regular use by local villagers and traders. The trek
is not technically difficult but the ascents and descents can be long and feel
relentless, especially in hot weather. You should, therefore, have some
experience of long distance walking. Surprisingly, this area is not
over-trekked and indeed it is uncommon to meet other groups on this route. In
keeping with this lack of outside influence, the villagers are still inherently
traditional in habit and revere the landscape and nature that surrounds them, a
timely reminder to us all. A classic trek, and a must for the keen Himalayan
walker.
Day 1
Arrive in New Delhi and transfer to our hotel. The morning is yours to relax
and explore this vibrant city, with its many colourful bazaars, splendid
colonial architecture and wonderful restaurants. In the afternoon there is a
guided tour of Old and New Delhi. Those who have made their own flight
arrangements will join us at the hotel during the day.
Hotel
Day 2
We take the early morning train to Haridwar, one of the seven holy towns of
Hinduism and site of the 12 yearly Kumbh Mela. The town is situated on the edge
of the Shivalik foothills, where the Ganges leaves its last rocky gorge and
begins a 2000km journey across the plains to the Bay of Bengal. We then
transfer to private vehicles to drive along the River Ganges, past Rishikesh to
Deo Prayag, stopping for lunch along the way. An enjoyable drive takes us
through the forested Shivalik foothills to the junction of the Bhagirathi and
Alaknanda rivers at Deo Prayag (618m), where the Ganges proper begins. We then
continue on to the bustling little town of Shinigar on the banks of the Ganges.
Hotel
Day 3
A full day of driving as we continue through the heart of Garhwal. From
Srinagar the road gradually ascends as it follows the Alaknanda Valley through a
timeless agricultural landscape. We pass through Rudraprayag (610m), where in
the 1920’s Jim Corbett shot the “Rudraprayag leopard”, a man-eater who allegedly
consumed some 125 persons over the years. A commemorative stone marks the spot.
The “prayags” are the sacred confluences on the rivers that drain into the
Ganges; there are five in all and further along the valley is Karanprayag
(832m), situated on the junction of the lovely Pinder River and the Alaknanda.
Shortly before Gwaldam we turn off the main road to Debal (1218m) and drive up a
switchback track to the road head near Mundoli village (2134m).
Camping
Day 4
Our first day of trekking. We leave camp after breakfast
and walk to Lohajung Khal (2350m), a grassy ridge with excellent views of the
surrounding countryside and our first glimpse of a big peak, Nanda Ghunti
(6861m). As we gain distance from the road head, the influences of the modern
world quickly fade. Most rural societies still follow the ancient fertility cult
of Nanda Devi and strict rituals and customs have created a lifestyle that has
changed little over the centuries. After lunch, a steady ascent brings us to
the old British rest-house at Wan (2450m) where we set camp on the lawns, as did
Shipton and Tilman on their exploratory visit in the 1930’s. Here, in the base
of a massive deodar tree, is an ancient shrine devoted to Latu, one of Nanda
Devi’s most significant nature spirits and a living example of the Garwhalis
deep belief in the power of the mountain. Camping
Day 5
After a brisk descent, the morning’s walk involves a long,
sometimes steep ascent along a good stone path through shady forests of oak and
chestnut. On reaching a col another steady climb takes us through rhododendron
forest, which presents a beautiful show of white, pink and crimson when in
flower. We then move above the tree-line through springy turf and rock to reach
the high grazing meadow of Bedni Bugyal (3350m). It is said to be one of the
most stunning alpine campsites in the Himalaya. The mountains that we glimpsed
through the trees now present themselves in a massive wall of dazzling white.
Most significant are Trisul (7120m) with its three prongs representing Shiva’s
trident and Nanda Ghunti. To the northwest are tantalising views of the giants
of the Great Himalaya. Camping
Day 6
We retrace our steps down from Bedni Bugyal. After the
initial steep descent, we cut across through forest and open ground to a lunch
spot in a small meadow some distance above Wan. A gradual ascent bring us to a
minor pass, the Kukin Khal (3121m) that marks the watershed between the Kali
Ganga and Nandakini rivers that drain the slopes of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary.
This is remote country and as such has not suffered from overexploitation.
Leopard, jungle cats, barking deer and porcupine are some of the main fauna
whilst Lammergier, Himalayan Griffon, Golden Eagle and a variety of kites can be
seen in the air. The afternoon walk brings us to a beautiful meadow above the
village of Kanol (2900m). Here we make our camp amongst the superb rhododendron
that dot the pasture, as did Shipton and Tilman some 70 years before.
Camping
Day 7
An
excellent day of walking through classic Garhwal scenery. Beyond our campsite
lies Kanol village, a traditional Garhwali settlement with stone and slate
houses and excellent views of Trisul. Fields are still hand-tilled and provide
the villagers with most of their staple foods and a small income from any
surplus. From here, a lengthy descent takes us to the Nandakini River where we
stop for lunch and a chance to sooth our feet in the cool water. A very
pleasant walk in the afternoon takes us on a broad cliff path above the river to
pine forest and further villages. Near Sutol village we cross the Nandakini on a
solid iron bridge and stop for the night on the right bank. In Shiptons day the
crossing of this river necessitated a five-mile excursion upstream.
Camping
Day 8
This is
the heart of Nanda Devi country as the Nandakini is worshipped as the river of
the mountain goddess. Our morning walk takes us up and out of the valley through
delightful villages where many social rituals and annual events are still
intimately linked to worship of the “mother goddess”. Almost every stone, tree
and hilltop seems to have some spiritual significance attached to it and a sense
of timelessness prevails. After lunch an easy walk followed by steep climb
takes us to our campsite above the village of Ramni. From here there are
wonderful views. In one direction is the country through which we have been
walking and in the other the mighty peaks of Trisul and Nanda Ghunti once more.
Camping
Day 9
A less demanding day due to a restricted choice of
campsites after lunch. A steady climb through forest brings us to the top of a
ridge known as the Ramni pass (3215m) with distant views of the Kuari Pass that
we cross in a few days. This is ancient forest with splendid old specimens of
gnarled oak, holly, chestnut and rhododendron emerging from a thick carpet of
white and pink flowering peonies. There may be occasional glimpses of monal and
other jungle fowl. We camp near Shim Kharak, amongst the trees. The afternoon is
yours to relax and enjoy the peaceful beauty of our surroundings.
Camping
Day 10
We continue through thick forest to the village of
Jhenipani (1524 m) from where a steep descent takes us down the wild Bireh
Ganga, a river that caused Shipton and Tilman much frustration during their
explorations. The bridge, then a tree-trunk affair, was frequently washed away
resulting in some perilous substitutions. Thankfully, the river is now spanned
by an impressive suspension bridge built in the post-war period. Not
surprisingly, across the bridge is a steep ascent that follows a zig-zag path up
the bare and eroded hillside. As we climb we can see the remains of Gohna Lake.
In 1893 a great landslip dammed the Bireh Ganga, so creating a massive lake. In
the following year, monsoon rains broke the dam and caused a catastrophic flood
as far downstream as Srinagar. After lunch a great walk through forest and
pastures takes us towards Pana, the last village before the pass. Shortly before
the village we cut up to Kaliaghat, a small bugyal or grazing meadow.
Camping
Day 11
A fine morning walk today as we head for the base of the
Kuari, crossing the last of the bugyals as we go. A steep and sometimes slippery
descent takes us to the Pal Gudhera stream and this is immediately followed by a
steep climb up through wild crag and forest country. We are following an ancient
trade route that linked the southern valleys of Garhwal with Tibet. Goats and
sheep carried grain from here over the Kuari and Niti passes into Tibet, with
salt and borax being brought on the return trip. The afternoon is spent relaxing
at Dhakwani (3210m), a small grazing pasture below the base of the Kuari pass.
Camping
Day 12
An early start for the Kuari Pass in order to enjoy the
splendours of sunrise on the Great Himalaya. The ascent, that takes less than
two hours, follows a zig-zag path to the col (3658m) but the most impressive
views are gained from a point further along the Kuari ridge at 4268m. Here, on
the divide between the middle and the Great Himalaya the snow capped peaks
stretch in a seemingly endless arc, so forming the border with Tibet. Just some
of the major peaks visible are Kamet (7070m), Badrinath (7040m), Dunagiri
(7066m) and Changabang (6863m), Nilkanth (6600m), the elephant shaped Hathi
Parvat (6727m) and of course, Nanda Devi (7817m). After savouring this superb
panorama, we descend a little from the main ridge to camp about 280m below the
pass. From this beautiful spot we can, with luck, watch the sunset on the
mountains as a perfect end to the day. Camping
Day 13
Our last day of this magnificent trek as we follow a long
winding trail downhill to the road at Tapovan (1978m). The walk is steep but
pleasant as we descend through meadows and ancient woodland with glimpses of the
high Himalaya in the distance. At lower altitudes, village life returns and from
here a good path brings us to Tapovan, the last hamlet before the Rishi Ganga
Gorge. Tilman and his team halted here before their ascent of Nanda Devi and
enjoyed a dip in the nearby sacred hot springs, by bribing the sadhu who guarded
the place. From here we rejoin our vehicles and make the short drive down the
splendid Dhauliganga Valley to Josimath (1875m), where we arrive for a late
lunch. From here it is possible to take the modern ropeway to Auli for
spectacular views of Nanda Devi and her surrounding peaks. We return to our
simple accommodation in Josimath. Rest-house
Day 14
A full day of driving so a prompt start after breakfast.
We follow the Alaknanda River away from the high peaks back to the Shivalik
foothills. At Nandprayag the Alaknanda joins with the Nandakini river that we
crossed several days ago and a little further on we meet the Pinder at
Rudraprayag. From here it is a pleasant drive along the main valley back to
Srinigar for the night. Rest-house
Day 15
A shorter drive in the morning brings us back to Haridwar,
the most northerly of the holy towns on the Ganges. From here we continue to
Delhi by road, arriving in the late afternoon. The remainder of the day* is
yours to enjoy in Delhi. Late evening transfer to the airport to board your
return flight home.
Day 16
Depart for London.
Trek Notes:
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A "moderate" to "moderately tough"
trek at low altitude.
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Average walking time 6 hours.
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16 day trip, 10
days trekking with full porterage.
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Maximum altitude 3658m. Average
2700m.
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2 nights hotels,*Day room for group
use. 3 nights simple rest house, 10 nights camping.
ACCOMMODATION:
DELHI: We use the 4 star Siddarth Hotel. Facilities include
restaurant, bar, swimming pool and it is fully air-conditioned. Elsewhere we use
simple guest house accommodation
NOT INCLUDED:
Air travel*. Alcohol, bottled water or soft drinks. Entry fees to monuments
of historical importance. The Taj Mahal is closed to the public on Fridays.
TRANSPORT:
Transport is by private car/coach with an English speaking driver.
SPENDING MONEY:
You
should allow about £4 a day for incidentals and tips, perhaps a little more if
you enjoy a few beers as these are comparatively expensive in India.
INSURANCE:
It is a condition of joining any of our tours that you hold adequate insurance
cover. This must include medical and personal accident insurance.
TRAIN TRAVEL.
Train travel is by air-conditioned carriage. Bedding is normally provided free
of charge on the train (sheets, pillows and blankets)
TRAVEL ADVICE:
Essential India is constantly in touch with the UK foreign Office and their
advice is followed instantly and to the letter. Our base for many of our
workshops is in the State of Himachal Pradesh in Northern India. With friends
and family still living there we are kept well informed of any local political
developments. Himachal Pradesh has continued to remain unaffected by events in
Kashmir. Essential India will travel whenever possible, provided it’s safe,
enjoyable and in our clients best interests.
RECOMMENDED
READING:
The Lonely Planet India Travel Guide and Rough Guides Travel To
India.
Timings given
are approximate
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Whilst every effort is made to keep to the above itinerary,
clients will hopefully appreciate that this is adventure travel. Weather
conditions, road conditions and vehicle breakdowns can contribute to the need
for changes. Your driver/guide will do everything in his power to see that you
are inconvenienced as little as possible in such events.
EQUIPMENT
PROVIDED.
We provide ‘A’ frame or dome tents which have room for two people plus all of
your equipment. There is also a dining tent, a toilet tent exclusively for our
group use, and a kitchen and staff tent. There are camp chairs or stools, a
kerosene/gas lamp or candles for reading in the dining tent at night, stainless
steel crockery and tableware and *foam sleeping mats. (*subject to availability)
We strongly recommend you bring your own karrimat or therma-a-rest as well.
The staff complement of cooks and assistants are always in attendance. They
put up and take down the tents, make the tea, cook the food, wash the dishes,
load the porters and carry a load of their own. They work extremely hard and
are always willing to help. If you want to join in putting up tents and taking
them down, you are free to do so, but it is not expected.
A TYPICAL DAY ON
TREK
Soon after dawn you
are served tea or coffee while still in your sleeping bag. A few minutes later
a washing bowl of hot water is placed outside your tent. You can wash inside or
outside the tent. Once dressed you can pack your kit-bag/duffel bag and
day-pack in preparation for the day’s hike, and place these outside the tent.
The camp staff will take down the tents. While this is happening, breakfast is
served. In the Himalaya breakfast usually consists of cereals and/or porridge
with milk, eggs, usually served with chapatis, (unleavened bread that is cooked
on a hot iron plate) or pancakes with honey or jam. There is always plenty of
tea and coffee. The camp will be being struck while
you are eating, and you will need to be packed and out of your tents before
breakfast.
You can take a
leisurely breakfast breakfast will the staff prepare loads for the porters or
pack animals. If you have not filled up your water bottle the night before ask
the cook to fill your bottle with boiled water. You may also collect a packed
lunch, although usually you may have a cooked meal at the lunch stop. Departure
from camp could be from any time between dawn and 9.00am, depending on the days
itinerary, but generally you will start walking at around 8.00am.
Depending on the
length of the day’s walk, you will walk for three or four hours before stopping
for lunch. The lunch stop will last for about an hour.
You usually arrive
at the next camp site by 4:00pm. Camp may already set up by the time you get
there, and tea/juice and biscuits will be ready to welcome you. Supper will be
ready soon after dark, and will be served in the dining tent or in some
instances, around the camp fire. Camp fires will only be made if dead wood is
available. The standard of cooking on trek is usually surprisingly good, with
the style of cooking being a compromise between local and western food. Menus
vary, but typically we start with soup. The main course is often a rice based
meal with meat stew or mild curry, plus separate vegetable and salad dishes. A
sweet dish is provided after the meal. Our meal is finished with tea, coffee or
hot chocolate. Sometimes a bottle of local spirit is provided by the camp
staff, but we advise clients to buy plastic half bottles from duty free.
However, you should only drink alcohol when you feel acclimatised. After
dinner, the usual practise is for your water bottle to be filled with hot water
and used as a hot water bottle for your sleeping bag and for drinking water the
next day.
We would like you to
enjoy the serenity of the unhurried atmosphere that exists in these wilderness
regions. Our day to day camp routine on your trekking adventure is geared to
allow you to make the most of your holiday.
Important:
Before you travel please check your Tour Voucher and Arrival
Information for the latest joining instructions. This will be sent to you
upon receipt of final payment.
All itineraries
are subject to change without prior notice.
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